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RJ, two suggestions: 1. HERE's the DIY write up I did....for about $13. If interested, I could do the soldering for you....or actually assemble the whole thing if you buy the parts. 2. Option two is to pick up Aquahub's Premium kit....for $40.....still requires assembly, but no soldering...

Marcus if you would like purple Monti cap, even though I recently did a clean out, I've got some you could have for nada! I'm trying to get the green, orange and purple monti cap out of my tank.

I say bare bottom.....all the way around. :rolleyes:

Bob, I never had a snail guard on a horizontal float switch....considering I have this in my ATO reservoir in RO/DI water....with no snails. However, on vertical float switches, I've used little plastic jars with a wide-mouth lids were I've drilled holes in the side of the plastic bottle...

This was listed as "Bad Nursery Ideas" Looks good to me....I can only guess they didn't have proper lighting! :eek: :D

I'm a DIY two part'er. Right now I'm dealing with excessively high calcium by relying on an expired test kit.....Doh!......I should have known better. Waiting for three new Salifert kits to arrive......First time using Salifert.....can't wait to try them. And yes, I dose DIY mag on an as...

HERE is the actual float switches I used. Note, it takes a couple weeks to get these things from China.

There are many successful tanks at pH of 7.8.....or even lower.

Oh my gosh, my pH is almost 8.6!!! It's a good thing, as a two part doser, that I know that it's impossible for me to get to this pH unless someone dumped something nasty in my tank. I might be able to get there if I dosed kalkwasser and overdosed or dosed too fast, but otherwise, it's...

I always love the DIY stuff, but I'm going to be brutally honest: 1. Most float switches can't get wet on the top side.....it's not a waterproof connection where the wires come in from the top. Might not short out immediately, but it will within short order. 2. There is no...

Please remember to RSVP above. I'm going but will likely be late because I have a re-certification that I must attend first.

With the recent issue with one of my MP40 controllers malfunctioning, I wanted to link the post here so if and when if happens again, it will be documented in my tank build, and I'll be able to find it. Ecotech Vortech Controller Malfunction On a separate note, with moving my dosing...

Mark, you're too kind. I'm a backup fanatic and would appreciate your controllers. I've already had to replace the MP10 controller (you can see it in the picture above) about two years ago.

Good news.....Someone on another site told me about a reset you can do on these old controllers: 1. Hold mode (pump blinks white) 2. Hold mode and set (pump blinks yellow/white) 3. Cycle power to the pump by un-plugging and re-plugging it in And the good news......it worked! I'm happy! :dance:

Thanks Art for the response, but upon further investigation, it's not just the light.....crap! Putting my ear to the "yellow" dry side, I can hear it speeding up and slowing down. Putting my ear to the "red" dry side, I hear no change in the speed of the powerhead.....constant speed.

I have old Vortech MP40s that I run on "reef crest".....the yellow light. I'm sitting in the fishroom tonight and open up the panel exposing all my controls and the one controller is red??? So I'm figuring there must have been some little burp and all I need to do is click through the...

I'm seeing the same thing for the first time....and I've been running them for years. Who's pellets are you using? I've been using BRS since day one.

That is pretty neat. I'd think that 8000k is still too white for me. Are you able to get bulbs with more blue.....maybe 15000 to 20000?

Ouch! Four clowns in the same tank. Are they from the same brood? If not, once they pair off and one (or more) goes female, you'll have World War III on your hands. Good luck.

Granted, I'm color blind, but I still see that as a tank with ammonia and no nitrite or nitrate.....an un-cycled tank. Did you put in BioSpira or Dr. Tim's?