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+1 Just skin contact can be cause for major problems.....I know first hand.

ABS is safe to use in you tank.

I did a quick search, so I'm not sure about color. I will tell you that two of the split returns I have (Chinese Loc-line), costing $6 each, with free shipping, and are black. But realize, this was back in 2008. It might take a little creative searching on ebay.

For Loc-Line, if you don't mind the "Chinese" knock-off, search ebay for "flexible pipe." Here's an example I quickly found that was only 8 bucks...with free shipping:

If I was doing a tank today, I’d be using Jabeo’s as well. I think people who spend the money of Vortechs are idiots…..I own four of them! :o

I’d prefer if you lie to me, and told me you weren’t stealing the idea! :p If you’re up in the area and wish to see it first hand, you’re welcome. And it’s not a ton of flow because I don’t run the MP’s wide open….they eat their bearings if you do.

Yep! Two MP40's and a Koralia 1400.

Yes.....running along the top of the tank, but dumping in at four locations. The return line comes up to the top-center of the tank to a tee. The tee goes out left and right, to a respective other tee, and ends with an elbow. Off of these tees and elbows are four Loc-Line returns. This...

Yes.....or you can drill the tank for the returns as well....they sell those kits as well. However, I prefer coming up over the top....that's what I did. Here's the picture from the back side showing the two drains and one return:

I'm no expert, but doesn't Quinine also wipe out your bacteria? I thought it had to be used in a QT/hospital tank because of that.

I can’t count stages, but I’d use, as a minimum 1. Sediment filter 2. Carbon block 3. Carbon block (or chloramines, if needed) 4. RO membrane At this point, I’m in agreement with Lostinthedark…….I would put in a Tee and send one line to the DI unit (to be used for the fish tank), and the...

Mike, are you talking about Phil G......if not, I think his setup was basically "push a button" as well.

Is that saw also known as the Chef Emeril Lagasse saw….Bam! :p I fully agree, either a "bam" saw or hack saw. You can cut it in place using one of these mini hack saws, flush to the nut: Actually the plastic cuts so easily you could simply wrap some tape around the end of a hack saw...

You only need to replace the top…..using ¾ ply. If you wish (or the gap is that big), simply shim the gap with a wood shims. As far at the edge trim on the plywood, you could use that corner trim. However you’ll now have that raised portion on the top of the stand…..a lip. I’ve always...

Dimensional lumber (2 x 4's) is like nitroglycerine as well…..that’s why you top with plywood. Again, use ¾ ply as your top and it will level everything out.

You can use that nice looking aspen to trim the edge. You rip that at 1 inch wide and use it to go around the plywood to hide the plywood edge. Here's a top view:

Nice looking stuff! Now rip it off and put on plywood! Natural woods look real pretty, but are as unstable as a stick of nitroglycerine at a rock concert. They will warp, twist and contort in all different directions Again, stick on some plywood, with a solid wood edge to make it...

That’s not good. I went back and looked at your build It looks like you topped the stand with maybe ¾ ply….so I can't figure how or why the tank wouldn’t sit flush. Something is not kosher. That tank needs to be sitting flush to the top.

George, the hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide are “consumed” during the regeneration process. However note that David is still suggesting using the same amount of acid or base per amount of resin….so the stoichiometry is there. What occurs (and I’ll only show this little picture...

David, I answer with some reluctance. It most likely will work by using twice the concentration for twice the amount of resin……but I’m not 100% sure. Ion exchange resin beads are typically polystyrene or some “rubber,” such as styrene-butadiene-styrene. For the most part these compounds...