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Sorry for your loss. I always hated it when I lost a fish......:cry:

In general, the fatter the pipe, the less frictional loss, the greater the volume coming out the end. I actually brought the return line up to the top of the tank and Tee'd it off in both directions. Each of these legs has two Loc-Lines on it, for a total of four.

I’m not quite sure??? There are two types of silicones used in aquariums….sealants and adhesives. The caulk you buy at HD, GE Silicone I, is the sealant type of silicone and will remain pliable forever. Adhesive type silicones, the RTV type (RTV means Room Temperature Vulcanizing), could...

Glass-Holes…….WooooHoooo! Now you linked to the 3000/2……a 1500 gph overflow, where two would be needed to get 3000 gph. I think two of these within a four foot tank is overkill. Dependant on the return pump you are using, and especially if you are only planning on one 3000/2, I’d look at...

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "quick disconnect." I thinking you actually mean a union. If that is the case, and space is limited, put in a True Union Valve....it is the union and valve in one. Oh, and by the way, I agree with Kevin....no problem with all three close together.

Tangs need algae daily. Go to your local oriental market and buy nori used to make sushi....in the store I go to (in East Brunswick), it's in the Japanese isle. Feed at least a half sheet per day. That will fatten him up.

Steve, great article. To summarize: 1. The greater majority of phosphate in frozen foods is bound up within the food. 2. Rinsing only washes away approximately 1% of phosphate. 3. The large dilution of tank water makes this "free" phosphate insignificant. 4. See 1 (one), above….the...

I’m sorry, I had to pull the image over here….that is funny! Thanks for posting.

That is all I have George....The Reef Foundation Pro black plastic box. The only info on that is what I believe is a "part number," 22814. No other numbers.

OUCH! Thanks for posting. I'm going down right now to check my lot numbers. EDIT TO ADD: I just checked my Calcium B and it doesn't have a "batch" number, but does have a "lot" number. I'm wondering if this is the same thing.....mine is only a three digit number. I also now...

I couldn’t be more thrilled! Oh wait, I take that back. I don’t use tapatalk, because I’m a dinosaur. :p

Welcome back John! Is that a JBJ28 by chance? And where are the pictures. A tale isn't a tale unless there are pictures! And finally, what's an "intermediate" LED versus "pro," I'm not familiar with that.

So let me get this straight, you love your boyfriend because of his tank? :o After looking at the picture of his tank, I can’t blame you. :grin:

My kid was into freshwater planted for a brief time and, if I remember correctly, he had fertilizer sticks he used to put into the substrate, and ran some sort of CO2 bubbler. When I had freshwater, the plants got nothing but fish poop and whatever light.

I'm following along....love the DIY projects. Thanks for posting.

Jim, shame on you! (I won't tell your wife.) Dance

Kevin, do you even need to put additional 2X4’s in the stand….which will now take up room. I’m thinking that you can grab the horizontal 2x4’s on the top and bottom of the stand to attach the light rail.

Out of curiosity, what are you actual ALK, CALC and MAG numbers. It sounds like you are actually precipitating calcium carbonate. I know in earlier posts you mentioned dosing two-part, but don’t remember seeing numbers. Also, even though they call it “two-part,” it’s actually three-part...

I speak in general terms, knowing nothing specifically about nitrifying bacteria. Most bacteria will go into a dormant stage if they do not have the means to continue to reproduce (this assumes all other parameters are there to keep it happy.) If you don’t “feed” the bacteria with fish...

Kevin, not sure what woods you are using, but if you use a stain sealer first, the tone will be more similar between the woods…especially if you go with a darker stain.