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Paul, my heart bleeds. I am of the vintage, but was fortune enough to miss the draft by the skin of my teeth. As you know, they had the lottery system, and the only lottery I’ve ever won was this one...number 50. However, two months or so before I had to report, they ended the draft. I had many...
I suffer from “Tim the Toolman Taylor” syndrome and therefore need to add a second injector to the old MRC skimmer….need more power!
I know this is a shot in the dark, but does anyone have an MRC injector they would be willing to sell?
I’m in Sayreville, but willing to make this into a road trip.
Mike, they are in one spot. Mnat gave you the link in the second post above. This question has been posted before. As mnat said, go here to see other members FTS...and add your own:
http://www.njreefers.org/joomla/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=5867.msg55779#msg55779
It looks like I’ll be taking over the testing of water on the old tank. The one problem is that; 1. I’ve never done it before, and 2. The instructions for the tests kits have long been pitched. Not a problem with all the tests except Calcium and Kh. So what I need are the conversions of drops to...
The photo is a little tough to see, but could it be a spaghetti worm? Google that and see if it looks like your little fella. FYI, they are good guys. Here’s the little pasta boy that was in my tank:
Use of Epsom salt alone will boost sulfate levels. This can be balanced by water changes. However, the preferred recipe, as stated earlier, is a 10:1 mix of MgCl (Mag Flakes) and Epson salt. See this article for discussion and recipes:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-07/rhf/index.php#14
Magnesium is important in maintaining alkalinity. Also important in calc levels as well.
Reefkeeping Magizine has a real good explanation of this whole Mg /Alk/Ca/pH thing. I don’t have the time to search it out, but suggest you go to www.reefkeeping.com and search on Alkalinity. But you need...
Ed, I’ve got all the parts and about a dozen bulbs. Just want/need to get a light unit up on the tank asap. Without having the ballast in front of me, I see that I mistakenly called it a 440...must be a déjà vu moment from the ’72 Chrysler I had...8 miles to the gallon.
I would like to stop by...
Have a five foot tank (actually 59 inches) and will be putting six, 4 foot T5 bulbs over the tank. Four of the bulbs will be powered by an Icecap 660, and two by an Icecap 440. Two questions.
1. What bulb configuration should I use?
2. What two bulbs (location amounst the six) should be...
Well the “mechanical” components I would suggest include:
1. carbon reactor
2. phosphate reactor (phosban/gfo)
3. skimmer
These can be included in the sump or out of the sump or HOB. If I were to pick one, I’d start with a skimmer. The reactors can always be added at a later time with ease...
I wouldn’t tell you that you can’t use canister filters on salt tanks…because people have successfully done so. However, I think they very easily turn into nitrate factories if you use the typical media or don’t clean very frequently. I don’t think they are the ideal filtration system for salt...
All the ones that are still alive in the tank today.
Copperband. With the two that we tried, we had the lfs first feed them in the store first to see it they would eat…and they did. When we got them home, the only thing they would eat was black worms…and that was sporatic. No more Copperbands...
Realize I say this with ignorance because I don’t use MH’s. Are two 175’s enough light for a four foot 120....isn’t that like 24 inches deep?
Especially having them in the sand at the bottom.
Should also be measuring and maintaining magnesium levels....it’s all part of that pH / alkalinity thing going on. If I remember correctly, it should be around 1200 ppm...google it just to make sure.