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A lot of this depends upon exactly what you are after when it comes to lighting. If you want the lowest running costs, and the least amount of bulbs to change, run the MHs alone, and use 10,000 K or a 14,000 K bulbs, depending upon what you like. You could even use 20,000 K bulbs, but IMO...

I've got an Aqua Medic AquaSpace light and an AquaStar light. I have to admit that the fixtures look great, very sleek, modern, and so on. The extruded aluminum housing is just about indestructible. That's the good part. The down side was that both of these fixtures were designed for the...

Nitrates in a reef aquarium come from a number of sources. In the system you describe there are several problem areas. Since the system already has high nitrates, the first thing that needs to be done is multiple partial water changes. The system will need about 6 or 7 water changes of about...

Your FW fish don't need that sort of lighting, but if you maintain a FW planted aquarium, the plants would love it. I use 150w HQIs on my 90 gal planted tank, and the plants do fantastic. It's kind of ashame that more of the high tech stuff we take for granted in SW reefs doesn't find itself...

The first thing I'd do in this case is a large partial water change. That's "reef safe" and not going to cause a problem for anything else. Also test all your water parameters. Then wait. If the wound/infection keeps looking better, then keep making water changes. If the wound/infections gets...

If you have not yet already purchased anything for the lighting fixtures you want to build, consider just buying ready made fixtures. Since you want ABS plastic enclosures anyway, and you are going to need to buy all the electronic components anyway, you will likely find that the cost of the...

When you have a problem where one side doesn't work, first swap the bulbs. If the problem moves, it's the bulbs, if not the ballast. MH bulbs can be funny and sometimes fail after a very short period of time. However, they should be covered under warranty. Ballasts can also fail. If you do...

I don't have anything to sell, but the key to what lighting you need is what you want to keep in the system. If your lighting requirements are modest, because you have a FO, FOWLR or a reef with corals that will tolerate lower levels of light, you might do very well getting a couple of 4 foot...

Get a small purple tang, or hippo tang, and just write it off as picking up the wrong fish. [grin] Damsels have their place, but will cause a lot of problems for your more desirable fish.

You also might be able to add an addition 150w hqi, and reposition the others so that there are two of these over each half of the tank.

My only thoughts are that it would be advisable to use an actual heater controller such as an Aqua Logic or a Medusa, or a general controller such as an Aquacontroller. Then the heater(s) would be controlled electronically, and there would be no risk of the heater(s) locking in an on position...

Well, lets see. You want to put a large 10" tang, of s species noted for being extremely nasty, into a modest size tank (for a 10" fish), with a lot of other tangs. I'd say you will quickly end up with a single large tang in your tank. Yes, I know it's a fantastic looking fish, and in a...

IMHO, while it's fine of you want to go out shopping on "black friday" for normal items, you have to by "out of your mind" to want to do this for aquarium livestock. I would consider supplies a different issue, because if you get very much into reef systems, you find out that there are not too...

My question would be, why do you want to remove the center brace in the first place? Yes, it does do some shading on the MHs, but usually you can work around this one way or another. It's sure a lot less risky than messing with a critical structure of the tank.

I would say that that the limitation is not the size of the tank as much as it is that angels don't tend to like each other, especially when it's the same species. Mixing angels is always something of a risk, but it can be done. Usually you are better off if they are different species, and one...

Yes, I have had this problem with anthias myself. I suspect that it's caused by the fish being of poor quality to start with, possibly because of collection by the use of cyanide. It could also be because of poor handling from the collector to your tank. I will admit that this is some...

To get the fish eating, I'd try live adult brine shrimp. Yes, by itself, it is a lousy food, as far as food value goes, but it is a food a non-feeding fish may take. I would also make a large partial water change, maybe 20 - 25%, since it can't hurt. Anthais are sometimes tricky to get...

Rather than make a list of fish to pick and choose from, let me give you a few guidelines. Decide what sort of fish you want. Aggressive, docile, large, small, personality, color and so on. Consider what else will be in the tank, such as corals and inverts. Chose each fish carefully, in that...

Keep in mind that you do not necessarily need to discard the waste water. You can use in to water the garden or lawn, wash the car, etc. Also consider the other water that gets "wasted" around the house. Also, if you are going to recharge the cati-ani units, you'll need to clean up some really...

Zoas are usually very tough. If they will not open, it's usually due to water quality issues or the livestock in the system is bothering them. Retest all your water parameters. Any reading of ammonia, other than 0.0, indicates a problem. The nitrate reading of 10 is moer than I'd like to see...