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It is brand new; got a few months back and hooked it up in October. I didn't tale reading after each I will do that as soon as i can get my hands on a TDS meter. I don't own one yet.

No experience with those particular fish. But I have kept fish in a plastic container with holes in my main tank for 2/3 weeks with no problems. Just feed it in there and ensure the conatiner doesn't get to dirty. You can then concentrate on the bio-cube setup.

stcreef, thanks for all the info. You are the second person that said to remove that one cartridge. If the DI is already spent in making only about 65 gallons of water is that normal? I don't know the water pressure; all I know is it's considered high.

Here is what I purchased with out the replacement parts. I bought it on enbay from Purewater club http://cgi.ebay.com/Zero-0-ppm-Reef-6st-Reverse-Osmosis-RO-DI-0-5xFilters_W0QQitemZ120318438410QQihZ002QQcategoryZ20684QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

Here is a pic of the unit by Pure water. I'll search the web for more specs.

Yeah Phil tahnks for the split. Just for the record I was going to create a separate thread. I won't be in the office Friday. I'll PM over the weekend if I don't get tested by Monday. thx

stcreef, I borrowed the TDS meter, hand held, and will have to again and double check the numbers.

Hate to hijack here but saw something that caught my eye. It stated that RODI should be 0/2 for use. I have a brand new RODI and my tap measures 137 and the best I could get from the unit was 5/6. Are you syaing that this isn't good enough to use? Am I just wasting my time making water?

You could put some cheato in mesh with a piece of LR to hold it down. Hide behind some larger rocks in your DT. This will allow pods to grow an reproduce with out the mandarin depleting them.

Chase, read through the thread I asked a similar question.

RichT and ReneeRN have built tanks in the past among other things. They didn't use silicon but some type glue weld; just can't remember the name of it.

If I remember correctly Frontosas get fairly large with much food consumption and waste. I would go with a canister like Fluval or Rena XP.

I want to maintain 400/410 so will do a water change in a few days as its due soon anyway. Then will start to monitor and address using Kalk. Thanks

If there is no chnage in calcium in 24hr period then what? I know in the past it would take several days to a week before the Ca dropped some.

Okay. Thanks

STCREEF, When performing those calculations looking at the gallons of water in the system is it DT plus sump? I have a 75 gallon DT and 30 gallon sump. So the calculation would be for a 105 gallons?

I am thinking of dripping Kalk to keep the calcium constant. It is currently 360ppm but after a water change it is 400ppm. I have Kalk and an IV drip bag. I was planning on hanging it from the DT and drip it into the sump. Is this a good idea? I don’t have money or space for a reactor. I keep...

I have the same coral in a 75g with T5 lights, 36" 4 bulbs. Mine is the on the bottom right of the tank. It gets indirect flow from the 2 koriala's I have and seems well. I never directly feed it.

I'd take it but have 2 RES and 1 river cooter. Good luck.