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Coloring up SPS (was: Too Much Light??)

mikem

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I totally have the opposite experience with my coral colors. I run 12K Reflux and keep high nutrient levels, high bio load and have the most colorfull corals.
 
Boomer said:
Phyl

We did a massive water change early this year (95% roughly)

I wonder where I heard that before :D Some are binging to find out that large massive water changes do good things not bad things :) But you wont' here telling people yeah go ahead and do a 95 % change, you are on your own. Evey time I did mine, my 22" Tube Anemone would go into the spawing mode and just pollute the flippin' tank but I found a trick to fix that ;)

Coloring up for the most part seems to be dependant on K and/or low nutrient levels. An now adding crazy things like HGH and AA to the mix.

Doh, no idea. :) Hey boomer the K, low nutrient levels, HGH & AA almost sounds like zeolites territory. :)

Carlo
 
mikem said:
I totally have the opposite experience with my coral colors. I run 12K Reflux and keep high nutrient levels, high bio load and have the most colorfull corals.

My experience too more or less. Lower K value lights, high nutrients added to tank via fish poop and manual feeding, but good natural skimming & biofiltration to remove/process it all back out quickly.

What kind of NO4/PO4 readings do you get Mike?

Phyl, Zeolit brand has both the K test and product (other companies too).

Carlo
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I think there's a BIG difference between ADDING high nutrients (the corals actually need this) and HAVING high nutrients. Good nutrient export but high feedings seem to be part of the key to success, from what I've read.

Mix in there somewhere somthing about K that I have yet to get my hands around, and of couse the whole amino acid thing that's becoming vogue overseas.
 
K= Kelvin ;), not K as in Potassium but many believe Potassium plays a roll.

The K Carlo is from Eric Bornenman. He once said on his forum on RC something like " give me a tank and I will change the bulbs to a higher K and they will be brigher and more coloreful". The low nutrients is Zeovit and the HGH is the Italian Blue Method.

And all is subject to change without notice depending on tank :D

All closely tied and related to............

If one has lots of time and I mean lots of time I had my old friend Mesocosm take over this thread, 145 Posts

Inorganic Carbon to Reduce Phosphate & Nitrate?
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1158307

and the long thread on the Blue Method
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=971190&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

and Zeovit
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=133912

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=262217&highlight=clinoptilolite

It should take a year to read all this and the associated links :)
 
I used K both ways in my answer which wasn't good. The first K was in reference to the Kelvin rating of the lights since mikem mention he liked the 12K Reflux.
"Lower K value lights"

The second K was in response to Phyl's question "Do they sell K to dose? And a test kit?"
and my answer was that Zeo has both.

Confusing at times.

Carlo
 
Phyl said:
I think there's a BIG difference between ADDING high nutrients (the corals actually need this) and HAVING high nutrients. Good nutrient export but high feedings seem to be part of the key to success, from what I've read.

I'd agree with that but feel there is also a good middle ground too. I've been working very hard the last 6 months to design a reproducible system of management that focuses on a good balance between the two issues above using natural biofiltration without resorting to expensive solutions like Zeovit, Ultralith, Prodibio, etc. which kinds of scares me a bit.

I don't get why people want to have to use media that needs replacing and removes bacteria in the process, need to continually add new bacteria, need to manually feed the bacteria, etc... Seems like you're tank is always running on the edge of disaster. Yep it works but seems counter productive and unnatural to me, besides being expensive to boot. There just seems to be better/safer ways to remove the inorganic IMHO.

Carlo
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I'm referring to adding nutrients through feeding the fish in my post above where I make reference to adding high nutrients (v. having high NO3/PO4 values). Not the Zeo/Prodibio/Ultra path (but hey if that works for you, great).

Given my hectic busy lifestyle, I could not possibly add the bacteria and keep it fed, etc. That just wouldn't work for me. My tank needs to be a little more "self suficient" than that. The good thing about this hobby is that there are many ways to get to the same result.

Between our nitrate reactor and our PO4 reactor, I finally feel like I can keep NO3/PO4 in check AND feed my fish. I had really been struggling with this balance.
 
I forgot all about the nitrate reactor you set up (mines on the shelf). How's it been working for you? What do your NO3/PO4 numbers look like these days Phyl?

Carlo
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
0 NO3/.07 PO4

Still working on driving that PO4 number a bit lower though.
 
Phyl:

What does your Nitrate Reactor look like? Is it DIY. My PO4 is about the same as yours. If you find a way to lower it, please LMK.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Mike, you had said earlier that your PO4 was .7 ... is it .7 or .07? I think the next change of PO4 media should probably take me down closer to .02 (but what is the margin of error on the Hanna anyway?). I plan to test the effluent from my PO4 reactor tonight to see if it is higher or lower than the tank's PO4. That should tell me if it is still efficiently pulling PO4 from the water column or not.


Our nitrate reactor is a Coralife Ca Reactor (135), Matrix (15), Aqualifter (11) & sulfer beads (55); followed by a phosban reactor filled with dolomite & crushed coral skeletins.
 
??? Now you have me thinking. I'm pretty sure it was 0.07, but now I'm not sure. I'll have to check it tonight.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
In your last post on the topic you said it was .12, so I'm assuming you've gotten it down to .07. :)
 
Boomer said:

Very, very interesting thread. Human growth hormone aside, their solution is MASSIVE overfeeding, MASSIVE chemical dosing (Ca, Alk, Mg, Sr, I), way over NSW, and realy huge amounts of light (spectrum unimportant, 6-10W/gal) with aggressive skimming afterward. Well, I can at least overfeed my tank much easier than anyone of them can, and for the rest ... ;D
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Mg could use to be up a hair and NO3 down a bit, but otherwise your numbers look great. What's your PH run? If your PH is good, then you either need to feed more or light more (or ... ?!? <- whatever that is!).
 
pH is usually between 8.1 and 8.25 during the day.

Just a thought, are my lights on long enough? The photo period is:

12 noon - VHOs on
1pm - 1st Metal Halide On
1:30pm - 2nd Metal Halide On
8pm - 1st Metal Halide Off
8:30pm - 2nd Metal Halide Off
9pm - VHOs Off
 
NEWSALT said:
pH is usually between 8.1 and 8.25 during the day.

Just a thought, are my lights on long enough? The photo period is:

12 noon - VHOs on
1pm - 1st Metal Halide On
1:30pm - 2nd Metal Halide On
8pm - 1st Metal Halide Off
8:30pm - 2nd Metal Halide Off
9pm - VHOs Off

I may be lighting to long ???

My lighting is

10 A.M. Phoenix 14k 250W HQI On
Noon Dual Geismann 14.5K 250W HQI ON
8 P.M. Dual Geismann 14.5K 250W HQI Off
10 P.M. Phoenix 14k 250W HQI Off
 
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