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Merv's new 40 gallon build

you need a valve right out side of the sump and then put a union after that going towards the pump this way if you need to do pump work you only need to shut the valve to do work on the pump o wait you have a true union valve so your good comming from the sump you could hook that up with pvc to the elbow instead of the flex pipe just put a coupling in there
 
killab443 said:
I would personally use a barbed bulkhead and a 90 degree threaded to slip fitting on the pump side. Install a barb on the thread end of the 90. You can always cut the barbs a bit shorter. I just don't trust standard pipe with hose over it. Excellent build tho, very neat

thanks!


barbed like in here? :D
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=535632&page=17


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Jcurry@wesketch said:
When the pump is shut off the sump will fill with water. What keeps the water from running out of the bulkhead when you disconnect the pipe to the pump?

You might need to add another valve or have a stopper to insert in the pipe handy.


good point jeff-

the 90 degree elbow on the inside of the sump attached to the bulkhead isn't permanently glued in. I can pull out the elbow and replace it with a 3/4 inch plug if I need to disconnect the pipes

Similarly, if I wanted to change out the pump, the valve is a double ended version. Either side can be de-attached.

I was gonna add another valve somewhere but the space I'm working with limits me a lot!
 
ham said:
you need a valve right out side of the sump and then put a union after that going towards the pump this way if you need to do pump work you only need to shut the valve to do work on the pump o wait you have a true union valve so your good comming from the sump you could hook that up with pvc to the elbow instead of the flex pipe just put a coupling in there



hah!


beat you to it Bill!



lol



Hey, I'll be in Galloway tomorrow with your finished sump. I didn't take pics of it since it'll be in your hands tomorrow morning anyways
 
hey merv make sure that inlet valve is wide open going to ur pump use the outlet valve on the pump to cut back on any flow you'll kill your pump quicker just a heads up lol
 
is that reverse psychology? if your denying the amount of water instead of back pressure wouldn't it be fine to lessen the intake than stress the outflow? stupid hobby. a*backwards. ;D
 
thanks Paul, as long as what I post is being used as a help tool/resource, I will continue. Sometimes though, I feel like I'm posting pics to log it for myself....no one ever posts here anymore?!?

You are so far ahead of everyone they are scared to post. ;D
Don't stop posting you give a lot of good ideas.
 
evoIX said:
is that reverse psychology? if your denying the amount of water instead of back pressure wouldn't it be fine to lessen the intake than stress the outflow? stupid hobby. a*backwards. ;D
i think the biggest thing with reducing suction is that it causes the pump to run hotter than reducing return.it can also start to pull air if too strained.most pumps are made to push more than pull.kind of like the difference of above ground and inground pool pumps. normally the only wear and tear that reduced return creates is more pressure on the seals.
 

RichT

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
you should reduce the flow of the pump by restricting the output. Much less wear on the pump.

A better way to stop the flow should you need to remove the pump is to make the elbow inside the sump removable by not gluing it and simply replace it with a cap (or maybe even one of the rubber wing-nut screw plugs) when you need to remove the pump.
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
RichT said:
A better way to stop the flow should you need to remove the pump is to make the elbow inside the sump removable by not gluing it and simply replace it with a cap (or maybe even one of the rubber wing-nut screw plugs) when you need to remove the pump.


Rich, I like it….you’ve solved one of my concerns.  I want a way to “valve” off the water to the pump for those times you have to pull the pump out for maintenance.  I have been very concerned in putting a ball valve just off the bulkhead, especially on a glass tank.  The torque you put on the plumping (glass walls) when turning that valve concerned me.  This is especially true after the valve becomes encrusted with salt and gunk after a few months.  This stopper idea is the way I think I’ll be going with my external pump installation.  Now just need to install a union and I’m good to go.
 
got my RO filter this past weekend which I am installing in the basement but it has poured concrete walls. I have opted to drill a 3/8 inch hole to fill it with a wooden plug and then throw a screw in to hold up a piece of left over 3/4" plywood to mount the RO unit on. There is also a pressure tank which will be used as a pressure feed for the auto topoff




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Actually, I forgot to post the hose clamps that completed the sump/bulkead/pump




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Filling the sump:




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Last night, I wet tested the whole system to see how level the floors were. I had to raise the front up about 3/8 inch and the right side about 1/4". The floors weren't that bad, but they do move. The tank sits between two floor joists and the old wooden floors creak and give. Oh well.


The main return was too LOUD!

The water gurgled and flushed since the air bleed wasn't large enough to compensate for the amount water going down the return pipe. I tried to add a secondary bleed but after running the tank for 10 minutes, the noise was still uncomfortable since the tank sits next to the couch.



Here's the second bleed added after drilling the hole. The clear plastic was the original tubing. I added the black one which was a larger diameter



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making the hole bigger



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then the tubing (R/O line)

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Here are the two air bleed hoses working..... still flushing to my dismay

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Lowering the pump output helped a bit since there was less water going in but I want it to run full blast- no need to restrict the water here especially since I plan on using no powerheads (it looks like that may change)





More pics to follow, and a slight solution..... I'm actually working right now :)
 
Merv i noticed that too.

I gave the tank a couple days and the sound went away. I adjusted those bleeders up and down till i found the right height.
 

Tazmaniancowboy

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Good luck Merv, I have been putting up with the noise for a year now. Tried many things and did quiet it down drastically, but still gets on my nerves occasionally. Mine is next to the couches also. I just turn the tv up...lol
 
thanks guys- well at least I know it's not me :)








here's what I did (still have to tinker with it more when I get home later)

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I went "all out" LOL


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So after all the gurgling . . .




I tried this out- I attached the chiller return hose to go back into the sump (the chiller isn't hooked up yet). I opened up the pump full blast, thereby reducing the amount of water going back up to the tank, lessening the amount of water going DOWN the return pipe with the bleeder hose.

while not "ideal" for in-tank water circulation, it allowed the pump to run freely without any stress.

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and here's the other half of the soon to be pumped back water in the sump:


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and the corresponding lesser water flow in the overflow box.

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So after all that, I shut off the pump and noticed that the two auxiliary returns were siphoning water down. Disastrous if you lose power of course!


So what I basically did was to add a siphon break by drilling a small pilot hole which eventually became a large pilot hole and then added a secondary fail safe one (higher) in case the first one gets clogged up by debris or gets covered up with algae-


P3220353.jpg






these aren't glued in, they basically just attach to the main pipe


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here's the water level height for the siphon break

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i am dealing with the noise as of right now. with that huge distraction (grey fitting) has the noise decreased from that or the changes in water flow?

i'm going to open up the hole and remove the current airline hose. no noise in my sump area so i'm pretty happy with that. need another remedy or idea if the above fails to help.
 
evoIX said:
i am dealing with the noise as of right now. with that huge distraction (grey fitting) has the noise decreased from that or the changes in water flow?


with my height, I can't see the distraction :D :D :D


yes, it has helped a bit, but it's quieter when there is a hose attached to it (to regulate the amount of air going in).


THAT was a huge distraction-
 
merv not sure if you plan on it but i'd use krylon fusion over the PVC. for a bit more appeal. just paint 3 day cure then woOoopooOOwpacman looks cleans and nice camo
 
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