Need help designing a Canopy for my 75G

[TanksNStuff]

I'm going to build a canopy for my 75g tank, mainly to house my new LED's. There are lot's of designs out there on google, but I haven't found any that would fit my needs.

For one thing, my tank is viewable on 3 sides (front, back, and right side) so the typical type with an open back just won't work. I'm trying to build it so that the front and back look the same. I'm also hoping to be able to lift up both front or back (one side at a time is fine) so that I can access the tank easily for cleaning and/or general maintenance, as well as fragging my corals or moving rocks around, etc. Or, if it's possible, maybe I can just hinge it on the left side, and lift up on the right side... but not sure if that can even work.

Here are a couple quick shots of my setup (please excuse the balloons, I didn't realize they were in the background ):

Front

Back

Here's a top-shot of the LED fixture (I have two to install)

I'll be mounting my LED fixtures to the underside of the top, making cutouts for the fans on the fixtures. The mounting studs (which I may remove and replace with something that will mount directly to an aluminum angle) on the fixtures are about 6.5" apart width-wise and 7.5" apart length-wise... so I'll need to take that into consideration when designing the framing. I'll need to have long cross beams about 3.25" away from the centerline (longways) on both front and back. Or, I could just run the mounting angles short ways (front to back) at the proper locations... if that doesn't affect how the canopy lifts up. Lot's of options to consider here.

One thing I'm certain of is that I will want the side close to that wall to have the openings for all the wiring for the LED's. So, that side will either need to be open or have hole cutouts for the wiring.

Another thing to consider is I'd like to find a way to attach my autofeeder to the inside of the canopy if possible. I'm willing to buy another brand/style feeder if necessary to make this happen... so if you have suggestions on a different one with a mounting style that will work with this, please let me know. Otherwise, maybe I can just move the feeder to the opposite side (the wall side) and just keep that open. Hmm, that sounds like it might be my best bet.

Any ideas on how I can design this thing so that I can access all 3 viewable sides of my tank? I'm open to any suggestions, links, or advice you can give me.

 

[redfishbluefish]

George, looking at your stand, I'd go with two face frames (one for each side) and put two doors....wait, a 75 is four feet....one door on each side. The door would open upward with hardware that would hold it open. I would also leave the top totally open and put whatever braces you need to support your lights. This way the tank "breaths" through the top, and the lights have the opportunity to suck in fresh air.

 

[malulu]

how would you plan to support the wood frame? just let everything sit on top of the tank-rim ? it probably too heavy...

may be you can move the tank more closer to the wall, then you can secure the frame to the wall studs??

 

[redfishbluefish]

Weight shouldn’t be a concern. Here is the very large canopy, made with ¾ pine, and with a top on it, that was on a 75 gallon freshwater I use to have:

This was built with a face frame, with solid pine doors....and resting on the top of the tank.

 

[malulu]

FW tank? you probably fill the water once, dump the stuff in there, put on the top and never need to touch it again...


SW, i am sure George will be opening the cover at least 10 times a weeks... open/close, open/close...would the frame still hold?

 

[redfishbluefish]

FW tank? you probably fill the water once, dump the stuff in there, put on the top and never need to touch it again...

Please David, don’t remind me…..you’re going to make me cry…….I miss those days where I wouldn’t touch the tank for months! Regular tap water, with a couple drops of magic chlorine remover….just thinking of the little I had to do, now I’m questioning why I have a saltwater tank.

SW, i am sure George will be opening the cover at least 10 times a weeks... open/close, open/close...would the frame still hold?

This is built like your kitchen cabinets….so yes, you can open and close the doors multiple times, unless you have married a wife who, when asked the question, “What’s for dinner?,” and she says, “Reservations.” In that case, the kitchen cabinets wouldn’t be opened at all.

 

[adesimone1]

George the plans I have for our canopy is to have a whole cut in the top for the light to sit in this way you won't have any humidity issues with the light. My light angles in towards the bottom of the light. So I am having it sized To the Midway point of the angel so it will almost lock it in place. The front panel will be the main door then 2 smaller doors for feeding etc. If you can look at a Marineland 150 cube it is basically the same design without the whole in the middle. I found a guy that can build it for 350.00 If you want I can give you his contact info he is Doylestown PA

 

[ricwilli]

Forget about the canopy..... That looks like the perfect place to put a 300 gallon tank. lol.

 

[Gonzapa]

As far DIY canopies i am on my 5th one. I no longer put a cover on the top. I leave it open so there is no condensation and the lights can have fresh air.
My current canopy contains 5 swc fixtures over my 75 G. and I have no heat issues at all.Given that you have a peninsula tank I would do the canopy with full panels on each side and open them upwards.you will not be able to open them all the way with regular hardware. I would do one side that is easy to open with hinges that can support the weight of the panel. on the other side I would do piano hinges and attach them all the way to the top so the panel could be completely open for maintenance.
As far as plywood I wouldnt use anything thicker than 1/2 inch as the weight will make it a concern when flipping the lid up

 

[TanksNStuff]

Wow, lots of responses! Thanks everyone.

I think I'm leaning more towards what Paul and Gonzapa are suggesting. Being able to flip up (and preferably self support) the front and back sections might be my best option. I was originally considering closing the top (only leaving openings for the fans) but now I may be changing to the open top you guys are suggesting. I hadn't thought about condensation and that might be enough to make this choice alone. I was also thinking that my tank barely gets enough oxygen as it is with the open top... so enclosing the canopy might cause some problems with ORP.

Do you guys think I could have just a 6 or 7 inch wide center beam (lengthwise) and then just use a piano hinge for the two flip up panels? I'd be able to mount the LED fixtures to the center beam, then with the piano hinges I could flip up the panels 180 degrees and just rest it on the other side (fixtures would not move since they're attached to center brace). The only issue I'm seeing here is with an 18" wide tank, that will leave me only about 5.5" on each side of the center brace to get my hands in the tank. Actually I see one more issue... the fans on the fixtures would be blocked by the center beam, unless I cutout holes in the beam for the fans.

OK, still need to do some thinking on this I guess.

Oh and Richie... although I'd love to just do your suggestion I don't think that will be my choice. For one, I just spent a lot of cash on the LEDs and the controller, and two, I don't have a basement so getting the right equipment for a big tank under a stand there will be hard. I'm saving the upgrade for when I move.

 

[TanksNStuff]

Tony/Terri (wish I knew which one of you was posting, hehe) I'd like to see the plans you were describing too if you don't mind. Can you email them or post them for me please?

 

[redfishbluefish]

George, here’s a drawing that explains what I’m talking about. You first make a four-sided box (open top and bottom) that would fit and rest on the top of your tank. The design style would be face-frame, where the door areas would be left open and the two end pieces would have ¼ ply panels (actually the one end on the wall side wouldn’t have to have the panel….more air movement and allow wires to pass in and out.)

With your lights, I would use two thin strips running the length of the top. That is what I did. Again, if I were you, I’d just replace the current studs you have coming out of the top of your fixture with longer bolts….say 2 to 2 ½ inches. Then use a spacer (cpvc would work), maybe about 1 to 1 ½ inches long, to leave a little gap between the light fixture and the wood supports above. Here’s what my two Apollos look like from the top.

But you would have those stud ends coming up through this frame with a nut on the end


Hope that makes it a little clearer.

 

[TanksNStuff]

Ahh, so the box frame doesn't actually split (as I was imagining)? I think that's a pretty simple and workable plan Paul.

I think for the "doors" I'd have them on a piano hinge so I could still flip one up 180 degrees and just lay it on top. I'm trying to avoid having the need for a support or latch to hold it open if I can.

My only concern with this design then would be being able to reach down into the tank. Even with a door open, the frame of the canopy will limit my angles of reaching in, etc. I'm used to not having any obstructions around the perimiter of my tank. My plan was to have the lights 12" off the water, so the top of the canopy will be around 14" or 15" high. With top and bottom bracing on the canopy frame, that will cut around 6" off of my "window" to reach through. I guess I'll have to just get used to that and make it work.

I'll probably paint the interior of the canopy with an epoxy paint to help protect the wood. I can probably find something in our shop at work, but if not, can anyone recommend a product I could get at HD or Lowes?

 

[redfishbluefish]

George, a quality exterior latex would do the trick. However, I’ve been using Kilz Complete….its oil based, sticks to everything, and is very durable. It actually is a primer paint, slightly off-white, and will be the stuff I use on the inside of my canopy. One note of caution – make sure you have very good ventilation - this stuff will knock you out.

As far as room to get in and out of the tank….and now knowing you want a piano hinge on the top (although a regular hinge will also flip all the way open), the boards to make up the face frame could be relatively thin. You could cut those down to about an inch wide and still have plenty of strength. You could also leave out that center brace, since we are only talking about a four foot tank. So with one inch boards, and a 14 inch canopy, that gives you 12 inches to get those husky arms of yours in and out of your tank.

 

[TanksNStuff]

I don't know Paul. A couple more visits to the gym and I might look like one of these guys...

Blame yourself for finding that one.

Seriously though, that would be great if I could use 1" wide wood for the frame... especially if I can eliminate the middle brace. I'm sure I could make due with that.

I thought using a piano hinge would give it more strength since it will be attached along the entire door length. If I changed that to say 2 medium sized hinges (maybe 6" wide) do you think I'd have to go back to wider frame wood?

 

[adesimone1]

http://www.marineland.com/uploadedI...y Canopy Red Oak-300.jpg?n=0.6951366055291146. This the design I'm going with the only difference we will have the cut out
for the light