Hello guys, i'm trying to find out how to set up a float switch for my sump return pump, i pretty much follow every advise to prevent any over flow of my sump or display tank, but cant always be to safe, im going to Florida for 5 says next month and i want to make sure when i leave i have almost every fail safe as possible, i dont want to come home to a flood or worst yet find my fish dead on the floor, any input will help, thanks
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Need help with sump return pump float switch
- Thread starter Boty267
- Start date
Btw, forgot to mention that since i didnt know about tempered glass tank when i got mine, i cant drill my tank so i have a hob overflow box, thats is the reason i need to make this return pump float shut off switch
It sounds like you want a float switch to shut off your return pump in an event your hang on overflow fails to drain?
If that’s the case, you’ll need a float switch on your display. This would need to be mounted above the normal water level (where the water line is when the tank is running normal) Have your float set up to open the circuit. If your drain fails the water level slightly rises, raising the float, killing power to the pump.
Just keep in mind floats have been known to fail too. ( If uncleaned frequently, snails, etc causing float to stick in either open or closed position) I know you’ve said it’s alittle late now but IME drilling the tank for a low profile overflow is the way to go.
If that’s the case, you’ll need a float switch on your display. This would need to be mounted above the normal water level (where the water line is when the tank is running normal) Have your float set up to open the circuit. If your drain fails the water level slightly rises, raising the float, killing power to the pump.
Just keep in mind floats have been known to fail too. ( If uncleaned frequently, snails, etc causing float to stick in either open or closed position) I know you’ve said it’s alittle late now but IME drilling the tank for a low profile overflow is the way to go.
I have a few dual float switches and a extended float holder i've 3d printed, my problem's is how to wire the float switch properly to the return pump, i can't find anything that take me to the right direction of how to do it other than splice the pump wire and hook it up to float switch, i figured i need a relay but dont know witch one to get and how to wire it, thanks for the input.
Without looking at what anything is rated here I’ll take a GUESS and say in a junction box you probably could splice one side of the float into your 120v hot wire, the other side of the float switch to a receptacle on gold screw, neutral to receptacle on silver screw (or pigtailed with float if it has one) The float is just acting like a switch. If after you wire it the float does the opposite of what you’d like it to do then either turn the float upside down OR reverse the wiring.
Again this is without looking at what the float is rated for but if you could do it like this than your pump ( or whatever you wanted controlled by it) could just be plugged into the receptacle
Your off-the-shelf float switch is a reed switch (very very thin pieces of metal). You don't want to run 120 volts through these switches, not to mention having 120 volts submerged in your tank. That said, you can buy 120 volt switches, but you'll have to mortgage your house or sell your first born to pay for it....they are very expensive. Instead, simply use a relay. I talk about DIY'ing up a float switch with a relay HERE.
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Could try something like this. If the water level reaches the sensor, it kills whatever was plugged in, which in this case would be the return pump.
I was thinking a 12-24v transformer but relay makes sense, same with not wanting to bring 120v to the tank.. it would of had to been rated for the 120v though to even have that option, otherwise it would of fried
Can the float switch handle the voltage without a relay? I really dont know if i want to set it up with out it, if a relay is pretty much required for a 12v dc pump, is'nt required for 120v?
I agree with you, im not crazy about wiring 120v with out a relay into my tank, i know i need a relay and like you said they very expensive, is it possible to run it with arduino power or something like that? I've been looking around like crazy and i could only find threats about the float swicth for ATO, but nothing for sump return and if any of it talk about 120v but none if them, they all explain 12v dc pumps
That could be the key for my issue, thanks so much, and thank you all for the inputs, you guys are awesome thanks so much once againSmart Skimmer Security
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Could try something like this. If the water level reaches the sensor, it kills whatever was plugged in, which in this case would be the return pump.