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I don't want to bust your bubble Renee BUT you have to be very carefull with most photometers when using them on marine tanks. I have no experience with your meter but in general they aren't to useful on SW. For the most part the $1Kish meters don't work to well for SW. They are really designed...

The Lowes near me (Edward771 also) has both 1" and 1.5" in stock. I've seen it in different isles of stores so if you don't see it ask for a plumbing specialist and ask them where the spaflex/flexible PVC is and they should know. Carlo

I'd really question the need to keep the tank at 78 to begin with. This is the low end of the temperature our corals would normally ever be at. Why not shoot for keeping the tank at 82 (mid range temp) like Phyl did during the hot months? You could shoot for 78 during the winter when you need...

It's pretty simple to me. ALWAYS use a calibration solution that is as close to the outcome as possible. In this case the Pinpoint 53ms. It really doesn't get much better then this. Ideally, if you want to run your tank at 35% salinity or within a percent either way of it you can't get any...

That timeline was for use in a tank based on my own experience. It could be longer or shorter depending on the amount of media used. If used in to water it should last a lot longer. I myself have zero of both from my unit but if the water sit I can test for PO4s, etc so that is why I run it...

There won't be any chemical reaction to worry about but I'm not sure mixing it is a good idea. Maybe doing layers is better. The silicate material should last much longer then a phosphate adborber so I wouldn't want to change them out at the same time. Just an example timeline for in tank use...

Sorry about that. It's called silicate clear and is made by Sera Marin. It comes with it's own nylon bag which is nice if you want to run it in a bag instead of a reactor. Carlo

For the most part I typically agree 99%+ with Anthony (of all authors in the trade). His book on coral propagation is a really good book that's different from most. It's got info in it you won't find anywhere else. I myself wouldn't go as far a saying the "blue" spectrum isn't needed. Some...

If you use something like Phosguard (white pellets) that might be good enough on it's own to remove both phosphates & silicates. I would imagine this should suffice for most people. I myself run a media adsorber made specifically just for silicates just to be sure it's removed because of the...

That's pretty funny. Carlo

Yep I do this with a little reactor running a combo of GFO and silicate removing media. Carlo

I've done pretty extensive testing on most of the main stream salts. I only did limited testing on the zeovit salt. Basically just checked the big ions in this particular salt and didn't see why it was worth more except for the name on the bucket. The couple of batches I checked didn't have...

You could do this in a 125 tank or bigger. Hopefully bigger but the 125 could work. I've added plenty of Yellow tangs after the fact with other Yellow Tangs and don't usually see the problems you always here about. Not much different then adding any other new fish IMHO. I'd try and add them at...

I thought I'd stick my nose in on this one as I've got good experience with this over many of our frag tanks. Got 4 33L tanks with 6 T5 and 4 33L with 4 T5 lamps. I just recently moved a bunch of zoas and SPS from the 6 lamps over to the 4 lamp setups to see if growth or anything else is...

Overpriced and from my limited testing is not any better then many other salts. Carlo

I wouldn't mess with the lights at all ever to combat any type of algae or diatoms. Pretty much just a bandaid approach. Either let the diatoms use up the excess silica in the tank or run a silica adsorber to lower it yourself. PS some people have extended problems with diatoms so it's always...

Yea, you'll always see different opinions on what to add first. It's just like how to start a cycle. Many different ways to get the job done. Here's the thought pattern behind my line of thought. If you pickup a hardy type fish it can withstand water parameter fluctuations more then most...

Not overly agressive but a bit agressive. Probably the best way to relate both the blue and brown powders is between a Yellow and a Purple from my own personal observation. Carlo

I've got access to all the brands mentioned thus far plus the Red Sea and another brand not worth mentioning. The Sera kits seem to match very closely with the API test kits plus they have a couple of kits that API doesn't. They are very easy to use also and the bottle allows a more constant...

I wouldn't use a unit like that for the money. It's not designed for reef keeping and more for the sink type thing. For the money check out our sponsor AWI instead. You'll be glad you did. Carlo