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I've always had good success with them over the years. The high/low flow depends on the particular coral IMHO and where it came from. You can usually determine this on a case by case basis (worst case). Lowere light levels have always been what I used. While spot feeding is good here's another...

Both UV & Ozone are fine (I use them) but I'd suggest spending the money elsewhere first where you can get more overall bang for the buck first. For example before I'd buy a UV I'd first upgrade to a bigger/better skimmer that will pull more out of the water which will put a much bigger dent in...

To follow up on Phyl's post I'd think it OK to ask if the item could be held (for x time) but until such time as the seller agrees the item is still up for sale. If by chance the person asking for the item to be held doesn't follow through then the seller could/should sell to the backup purchase...

As long as it's a good container you should have a problem regardless of how long you store it. The only thing I might recommend is to aerate it before using it. Carlo

It's usually tough but doable. Best thing in my opinion is suck out the substrate and replace it. Pull the live rock and scrub off detritus in tank water external to the tank and then put it back in. You have a fighting chance at least if you get rid off built up detritus. Carlo

Pics aren't showing up for me. How about uploading them to the gallery here and then linking to them? Carlo

I'd be careful about using a photoperiod like that especially with corals in the tank as it throws off their internal clock and whatnot. This type of photoperiod has been studied pretty well and it was found to not be healthy long term for the corals. The whole lighting thing is also a bandaid...

Instead of trying to add more food to feed the Manderin in I'd suggest picking up some Reef Nutrition Tigger Pods which are most excellent and a bottle will last you a long time. Pods are the overall best for for this type of fish. Carlo

You need to reduce the nutrients in the tank as already mentioned. Basically speaking if you have algae growth you have excess nutrients. Doesn't matter what a test kit tells you as the algae can use the nutrients from the water as fast as they are produced leaving nothing to test for. It may...

I'd step back and take a look at what you really need to accomplish. For example are you trying to keep the temps down to a solid 78 or just trying to keep them at or under 84? If you previously pushed for 78/79 but can settle for 82/84 (not going over 84) then you may be just fine with only the...

Ideally you want to find the happy mid point using both a kalk and CA reactor. Typically people can't drip enough kalk (not enough evap) to keep calcium/alkalinity at the proper levels so you go full bore on the kalk reactor and then use the calcium reactor to pick up the difference needed...

I'm not sure where these numbers came from but they look like billybeu1 numbers and he his reported numbers are always way high. Carlo

It depends on the type of clam you have. If it's a Crocea or Maxima you want it high up in the rock work. If it's a Derasa or Squmosa you want it down at the sand level. Generally once you place a clam you should consider it permanent. If you know you will need to move the clam then do yourself...

That's so funny because the day I got my first Gem Tang was the day I got served divorce papers. I got my second Gem Tang the day I actually got divorced. Felt I owed it to myself to have a pair. :) Carlo

I'm gonna want to see this setup in person when it's done. It's going to look really nice based on your work thus far! Carlo

Basically in a nut shell if you have algae growing you have both a nitrogen source (ammonia/nitrite/nitrates) AND have phosphates in the tank. The problem with testing for it is that the algae WILL use it up as fast as it's being introduced into the tank. Since the algae is using it up quickly...

Re: Without starting a WAR If you follow the thread on this on RC you'll see I was the one who originally was putting this together but then other people got involved and it was independant anymore. Heck the company that did the testing also manufactures salt and that's a NO NO for testing. :)...

Check your iodine and potassium levels if possible. I've found them to be one of the biggest causes of lack of blues in tanks that are otherwise spot on. Just a thought, Carlo

Here's an old article but a great deal of it still holds true. http://www.icecapinc.com/rev1.htm Carlo PS I've always run PCs or Halides but due to the nature of my work I now have lots of different lights to play with and experiment on. I've been observing some nice things with lights other...

They are actually a snap to wire up. Each set of 4 lamps would get wired like this: Carlo