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Well, your at the mercy of your RO/DI unit so you can't go faster then it will allow. :) Look at it this way, your nitrates are moving in the right direction! Honestly, you're probably better off going at the pace you have to go at due to the RO/DI unit. Sudden drops of nitrates and phosphates...

Yea but calcium reactors come with their own set of issues too. You have to stay more on top of water changes or you get ionic imbalances. Calcium reactors are also a bad choice if your tank runs on the low side pH wise. Even if you go with a calcium reactor a kalk reactor is still a good...

You've gotten some good advice Ed here in the thread. I'm inclined to say go lower flow on the return and higher flow in the tank itself. I'm not a fan of high flow through the sump. I prefer much slower flow through there then most people would advice. My thought behind this is that most of...

With sps types like you mentioned I wouldn't want nitrates any higher then 5 ppm and really would want them to register zero on a hobby test kit. Same with phosphates. Either of these being elevated is going to cause you problems. Another thing to watch is alk level. Try and keep it right...

I agree with the others who have posted. Being in the trade I'd say Dr. Macs policy is normal to above normal. As DaveK stated some other online retailers make you send the coral back to them along with a water sample. This then costs you even more as you need to send the coral back via...

You don't have to replace the evap water with a completely mixed solution. You can just use RO/DI water and have the kalk or 2 part seperate. For example if you go the 2 part route and find you need to add 10ml of each (example only) you could setup 2 dosing pumps. Ideally you won't want to dose...

Good job with him. I love hearing happy endings to stories like this! Carlo

PM sent to raider77 with phone number. Carlo

Just to clarify. It's not that the tests are so bad it just that there are two different types of phosphates we need to worry about. One is organic and the other is inorganic. Typical test kits only measure one type. The 2nd problem in measuring phosphates is that while the test kit might do a...

Give him time. That will come! :) Carlo

I shoot the same as Phyl (setting wise) and you can go through memory pretty fast! I normally go with the "biggest" memory cartridges I can get but more important then size IMHO is memory speed and there is a big difference between many cards. I use my camera for sporting events and rapid...

Totally missed that. :) Carlo

Sounds like it's on the road to recovery. The fact that it's able to see if very good news. Carlo

You totally lost me on that one. Are you talking about something with seeled gloves built into the back or something like that. Kind of like the boy in the plastic bubble type environment only in a tank version? Carlo

If you have long arms you can usually reach/work on the bottom of a 30" tank without to much problems. I've got a couple of 30" depth tanks and if I stand on a chair I can reach the entire bottom of the tank. Now if you don't have long arms it's another story! It's a shame some company hasn't...

You can cheat a bit and add a very small amount of either calcium or buffer into the RO/DI water. For example if you know your salt it "light" on calcium just add a bit to the RO/DI water as it's being made up. The water won't be "ion hungry" anymore and there will be no leaching. There are...

Could also just be carbonate buildup like many people get on their overflows and pumps. That's what white "dots" typically are. I have this on most of my tanks in the overflow sections. Better pic is needed to know however. Carlo

Me three. :)

The RO/DI unit if functioning correctly will remove the charges from the water (negative and positive charges) so the "pure" water is ION "hungry". The water will try and pull anything it can from the air or container it comes into contact with. Technically it can do this with glass also but the...