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If you're running a line up to you're main tank from the basement you might be better off having 2 shut off switches and run the line directly from your RO to your ATO reservoir. One switch would be by the RO filter for maintenance and the other near the ATO unit for regular fillups.

It's good stuff, once I'm out of carbon I'm switching back to Chemipure.

I prefer chemipure elite myself because it removes phosphates.

I can't speak for onefish but, there's a strong belief among some reefers that no crab is reefsafe and will eventually cause havoc in a tank.

I prefer B-Ionic's 2 part or DIY variants. The extra elements that I don't test for that Kent adds has kept me from trying it.

There is nothing wrong with a swing arm once you know it's calibration. Oh and salinity reading: refractometers and salinity homemade calibration standards

For lighting I've seen... 4 through 8 bulb 36" T5 setups a single 250 MH (with and without actinic support) dual 150 MHs and combinations in between. For sumps, I've mainly seen 20g, but a few will go up to another 40B. (Jerzsky here comes to mind.) For flow... a strange affinity for the...

What would you want to filter it for? (Insert smart remark about filter ocean water through a RO filter here :p)

I prefer this reefkeeping article on the same subject At least because it was easier for me to read. :-[

Vinegar is a natural acidic cleaner that can/will remove mineral deposits as well. Plain white vinegar plus warm water is what's needed for the bath. I like a a cup of vinegar to a gallon of water myself. I let the pumps run in the bucket for 15-30 minutes and then take an old toothbrush to them...

For coral, you can go with just about anything and fish wise I wouldn't go with anything bigger than a single clown goby. For lighting I would recommend a DIY LED setup, but the light it comes with will work for some hardy, lower lightish corals. Some good reading: El Fab's Simple Guide to...

API for the nitrate cycle and pH, Salifert for Mg, and Hagan for Alk and Ca here.

I'm not Bill, but I do this too. After 7 days I don't have any gunk, but if I leave it for a few weeks (which means mucho time between nano waterchanges :o) then a residue will form. RHM says it's harmless though and I haven't seen any ill effects.

Congratulations. Since you won't have time for your tank anymore when can I take it off your hands? ;p I might have some baby stuff for you later down the road too.

Sorry I missed it. I partially blame the weather.

Yes, but by using a dosing calculator you would know about where the levels are and how much to add. For example .7g of saturated water would your levels about +7 ppm CA and +1 dKh (80g water volume). Which reminds me... what is your Alk uptake? There are some reefers on N-R that manually mix...

Have you read http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-01/rhf/index.php already? Also, I prefer the drip method.

A nice function is being able to run multiples of the same probe. Say for instance you're running a Calcium reactor, you can monitor not just tank pH but also that of the effluent. Multiple temp probes in for extra security or it your sump and display might be in rooms at different temp levels...

You can feed the fish every 2-3 days and corals 1 or 2x a week.

duh, and what I am saying is that at Adventure Aquarium, the touch tanks (the shark one in particular) have oversized skimmers just for the summer months do to sunscreen and other products people use on their hands. Now, because they are doing that for a simple fish tank here, it makes perfect...