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about 12-15 feet, Tee'd off from my Mag 5 which was also a return pump, so I would say 1/2 of what the Mag 5's output is....
Some of the old members here would remember me posting pics of that a while back (like a whiiiiiile back when I had the 55gallon, and waaaay before this new forum)...
I've done the mini fridge before (that pic is funny, it looks almost like mine)- It's not efficient with the plastic tubing. After looking online for titanium coils, I decided to toss out the tubing contraption I made, and gave away the fridge. For a 55 gallon tank, it only dropped down 1-1.5...
I think I brought with me:
Huge frag of the Green slimer
The blue stag colony (wasn't doing well)
Huge Idaho grape
Superman monti
Hulk monti
Sunset monti
Frag of the pink birdsnest
Small colony of the purple digitata
RichT's small colony of whatever small SPS it is (wasn't doing well either)...
thanks Jim!
I was off today so I went
CORAL SHOPPING.... (not really)
I had to go East to Galloway to clean up the tank (my buddy the tenant said it was dirty) and do a water change and run some chores..... Figured I was in the area anyways, so may as well do a bit of fragging...
Do a search on ESV 2 part.
It's a 2 part additive (1 part calcium, 1 part alkalinity buffer I think)
Or you can drip Kalkwasser, but as Nick said, you won't need to dose until your demand gets up there
Oh yes, the dimenions definitely help!
If that tank were mine, I would do the following:
single halide bulb, either 175W halide for subdued lighting like a deepwater reef or a 250w halide for a shallower reef. I'd be careful with the 250 because heat and acrylic don't mix. Bulb choice: 20K...
it depends on what you keep- If you keep high calcium demand corals like SPS and LPS, or mollusks/bivalves especially clams, they will deplete your calcium levels in time. As they get larger, their demand increases. A calcium reactor will help you once you start getting into higher calcium...
This topic has been moved to The Chain Gang (Don't Break the Chain & Free to Good Home).
http://www.njreefers.org/forums/index.php?topic=24213.0
per author's request
I've used them before, they work pretty well actually. It's like calcium and magnesium and all the good stuff to jump start a coralline bloom. I would start off with one bottle and wait a month. Also, keeping your lights in the bluer spectrum will help the algae proliferate.
The rock is now elevated up from the sand which is what I was trying to accomplish. The cement wasn't quite as cured as I had hoped it would be, but I threw it in the tank and so far the SPS and fish haven't reacted to it.... I hope the tank will be ok, I only used a small amount ot waterplug...
Here's an update. . . . .
ROCKWORK!
Materials:
Cordless drill and bits
Pieces of liverock (or base rock, whatever you have)
Small container of quick setting cement (waterplug, thorite, etc)
a handful of 12-18" zipties
Plastic coat hanger (check with the wifey/GF first!!!)
Pliers or cutting...
when I used to have 4 maxijets, I would set all 4 "on" during the day. At night, I went down to only 2 which were on opposite sides of the tank. Plus, the calmer night mode is good for everyone, fish included.
During the day, random is good, any and which combination. Most reef crests see more...
Most acroporidae will fully extend their polyps at night to feed since there are less predatory fish or they aren't active. Specialized polyp feeders hide when the lights go down so the polyps use the darkness to extend, respirate and feed. At night, more plankton go into the water column...
Need to update this thread, more pics probably fri- have to charge up the camera battery-
so far, the tank's algae film has dwindled to every 24 hours which means the chaeto in the sump is competing with nutrients, a great sign because I've never been able to keep chaeto alive this long- the...