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I don't think that you have a big problem at all. What only matters is how high will be the level of TOP of the water in the overflow from TOP of the water in the sump. As long as that height difference is positive, you will have a flow, and it is completely immatrial where is the bottom of the...
I am not sure you got the picture right. Sump is just an additional storage for additional water and any container will be fine. The easiest way to do it is to go with some simple glass tank that will fit in the space that you have for the sump. The larger the better. You can also use rubbermaid...
Credit cards have deductible of only 50$ (in general). However I don't know if it is per item or per purchase, or per event. Check with your CC company.
Here is how I would have solved your problem:
Components are (ALL could be found in Radio Shack, prices aproximate from my faulty memory :-[):
Parallax Microcontroler ($70)
Rel 1-3 - Relays rated for 110V (4$ x 3)
T 1-3 - Simple switching power transistors (4$ x3)
D 1-3 - Simple diode (1$...
I ment: In your design you have a gate that switches the flow between two pipes, so that pupmp P4 pumps either into the sump or back into the container. I believe that the price of such gate (that would be appropriate for reef tanks) would be higher and reliability lower then of a simple...
If you don't mind, I would make small modifications to your design/algorythm. Instead of using timers for X minutes of flow work of the component, use float switches. That way you can precisely measure how much water goes where. The reason why I am saying that is that it would be much more...
Great pics. I specially like the 2nd one and 3rd has really nice colors.
Watermark or copyright? Because, I couldn't see the watermark. Copyright symbol could be very easily created in MS Paint , just a C and and a small circle around it :) . It is also easy to crate a quazi-watermark, but the...
http://www.njreefers.org/forums/gallery/540_28_06_07_9_42_47.gif
:) You are right - it is very difficult to say for certain. However, from pic 2, it looks as if it has 2 main antenae and possibly another pair of smaller ones like...
I would also go with Dorvilleidae. Head antennae are clearly visible. As for the leeches, do they have setae (bristles/"legs")? I don't remember seeing any with them.
Somehow, I alays thought that if you go for those mega tanks, the natural source of light should be natural Sun. Burning thousands of wats of halids, pcs or t5s seems to me a bit aout of sync with the whole idea.
Not if you have stuff on your hands that will be detrimental for your tanks like fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides (from working in the garden), skin lotions, sunscreens, engine oils, paint, detergents and other chemicals used as household cleaners, food oils and grease, dust from sanding...
How big and how old is your tank? Mandarin requires well established tanks with lots of pods. It will compete with blenny ower food (pods) and it is hit or more probably miss with the flatworms.
If it is a Epoxy putty, be careful how you use it with motis. It heats up as it cures and kills coral tissue next to it. When mounting plated frags, the contact surface area tends to be a bit larger and a lot of coral tissue can easily die. Very large areas in proportion to the whole frag which...
Check the "Used Equipment" at B&H or Adorama. These are two most reputable stores of photo equipment in NYC. They have plenty of various used equpment, and if you have set your hart on Nikon check these:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/800548613-USE/Nikon_25420_D40_SLR_Digital_Camera.html...
Orange caps definitively don't like too much light. Mine require at least 8-10" of water under 150W MH. Green caps (with pink/purple rim), on the other hand, will show green and pink color only when placed above 10" depth (150W MH). Lights are ~ 8" above water.