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I am going to blame high phosphates. Just because you don't have algae doesn't mean you don't have high phosphates. Do a large water change.

I have received more pictures. I might leave the entry open for another week if everyone doesn't mind not having them by jan 1st. ;D

The idea is that the brine shrimp once hatched swim out into the light through the tube and the egg shells stay in the dark area.

check your phosphate & nitrate levels.

I would buy from someone who sells a lot of them so you get a better price.

The only reason they have different lenses is because dslrs have a smaller sensor size than film. Basically film lenses on a digital camera multiply the "zoom" level of the lens. i.e. a 50 mm looks like an 80mm lens.

I think I would just get a dual membrane unit with a booster on it and two di filters. Don't worry about the copper pipes, that isn't an issue. I would check out the filter guys or airwaterice.

Yeah, the B&H store can be a lot of fun for us camera nerds...  ;) Don't forget to check out their used stuff.

I had little small curly cued ones. They went away when I dropped the nutrient levels down in my tank. I think they were some sort of small filter feeders.

I was going to try and post them on flickr since it is easier to view once we are ready to vote. I have been taking the emails and just posting them up on this thread for now. I figured it can't hurt to do both. On a side note, a lot of people are sending low res files. I am assuming that...

not much time left, please submit some pictures. ;D

That should be right. My first filter is a 5 micron sediment, but either is fine. In your earlier post you had this "1 micron sediment ---> block carbon ---> .5 micron sediment" which wouldn't be right so I was just checking.

That's good to hear, still a little high so you might want to flush a little longer. Also might want to check to make sure you have the right carbon filters. You should have two different carbon filters, the second one being a high performance carbon block. Glad you got it worked out though...

Ok, well I am pretty far away. You could also go on the filter guys website. He has a lot of good diagrams for everything.

all (well most) the motorcycle stores carry it.

I think the reef keeper lite does everything except the ph. If not, I know the elite does everything you want plus more.

Yeah I just started saturday. I feel safer with it than dosing iodine and potassium. I don't test for iodine and the potassium is apparently what helps the blues in sps. I want to keep it separate so I can track the impact as well.

You could also try brightwells regular potassium for the blues. That is what he recommended to me last saturday.

I lol'd a lot... I will just say that it involved a reef tank with cgi box jellyfish, and a really hard acro (with a hammer and chisel and an apparent amount of effort to break) growing over sequins in two days.

This is the correct way to run everything. You have to have two carbon blocks. The carbon blocks remove all of the chlorine from the water. You should have 2 or 3 tds before your di. I would stop running through your di until you have it run this way or you will exhaust the di resin very...