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I would like to see a example of these, from the way it is explained It does not say how they increase usable light. Guessing that they channel more of the light waves downwards allowing less to scatter to the sides?

That's what I'm tending towards, but more of a shallow 20 or 30 gal, i have the PC lights and stand. The fraging started just to cull the tank some, now I may have to go to FA (Fragers Anonymous)! And as per a tank, Bovbaitboxs has like 200 tanks sitting around, no problem. adesimone1, Thanks I...

That's funny, your addicted.

You gotta see the pics to see what I'm gonna deal with, the shrooms, I am thinking about culling a bunch out and setting them up as frags, but under each larger shroom are a bunch of little guys waiting to grow out. As a kicker, about 3 weeks ago I did a re aqua scaping, took couple hours...

Thanks, once I get things under controll i will offer frags to the club members.

That's it, just be real gentale with it and give it time in the new location to see how it reacts. Good luck GregH

OK, I started out with the easy, basic softy's and mushrooms and things are going fine, actually a bit out of controll. I really want to turn the tank more towards zoos now and a few nicer pieaces. Main problem is that there is no unused areas left. Starting up a new tank is just not a option...

Do not understand, colony rocks do not move and the zoo polips are atached to the rock, perhaps the rock just settled or was pushed a bit by current like from a power head?

Mine are on Reef plugs and colony rocks so are easy to move, if yours have spread on to your tanks live rock or were mounted by glue then that makes it more difficult. Re landscaping the tanks LR can be done but can turn into a major job.

I have read a few posts on this and it seems that lower down from the lights seems to be generally better for them. Moving them closer or further from the lights may be a trial and error process, with each colony, with observation on how they react. From what I am observing with my colony's and...

Very nice.

Did tests again 29 gal Cal 410 ppm Alk 4.11 meq/L Should be 2.45 meq/L PH 8.3 Nitrates <0.2ppm Salinity 1.026 Temp 80 Phosphates not tested but using PhosGuard I did a water change and waited 5 days then did these tests, any opinions on the readings would be helpful. GregH

Perhaps Not bacterial, these guys melted overnight, never saw that happen so fast. in retropect, less trauma, larger frags, do the leave them alone and let them heal, And interesting, I researched this for awhile and could not find a single reference to this leather being sussesfully fraged or...

A pic gallery for ID and names of reef specimens should get interest. The only one i know of is CoralPedia and it seems that they may have lost interest in updating. Link= http://www.zoaid.com/index.php?module=Gallery2&g2_itemId=15

I concider the Fuji a loss! Did not work. At the same time I fraged a toadstool and some cabbage leather and have a 100% survival rate.

I have several leathers and found that if I dosed Lugols solution for Iodine the leathers would close up and wax over for days, not happy at all. GregH

Before the seltzer, blue off the chart, after the seltzer, yellow off the chart, now a nice light green 8.3 No damage except for my nerves.

Seemed like a good idea at the time! Hold off trying it, taking losses overnight. I read that this was a difficult one to propagate, Ill post up again in a few days when the frags settle down. Lost at least a dozen so far.

Had to do it. I used a method shown on garfs site, Impaling the frags on small plastic points on reef plugs. the one change that I made was to make small plastic disks with a paper punch and use them as a cap to hold the frag in place till it takes hold on its own. Out of 1 med yellow Fuji...

::) Oh , No that never happens!!! Sounds like you know what your doing, good luck again. GregH