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I would keep all baffles at the same height except the bubble trap like you said. I would go with the 3/8" acrylic personally. For "glueing" the acrylic you want a tight fit. The weld on actually bonds the 2 pieces to each other unlike silicone and glass. A tight fit is necessary for the glue...
Paul,
The guy at the acrylic shop I go to recommended an 84 tooth carbide tipped saw blade for getting nice cuts on acrylic. He also said to set the blade just a hair higher than the acrylic being cut. Hope that helps. I got some really nice cuts with this advice.
The only issue I see with using the overflow section of the sump as extra space for water in an emergency is that once the power turns back on or you turn the system back on that water is essentially lost and your pump may run dry.
Not too sure of any places around you. If you can't find anything close there is everything plastic in Philly right by the WW bridge and also offshore glass and plastic which is down my way in pleasantville.
Thank you. There's no real formula for baffle height. The main thing to consider is how much water will come back to the sump from your tank and plumbing when you shut the tank down or lose power. This way when the tank is shut down there is enough room or "freeboard" for the excess water in...
Leak test was successful! I'm very excited as it was my first time working with acrylic when it needed to be water tight. Have my old rock soaking in some water and vinegar now. Hoping to bring it to the shop to cure for a little while. I'm hoping to bring the tank, stand, and sump home next...
I believe hockeynut posted in the networking forum about building stands. Maybe PM him. Not sure where you are located bit I know a guy in toms river for custom cabinetry. He does some amazing work but he's not cheap by any stretch of the imagination.
So you guys were the ones holding those crazy upside down swimming fish at trop...lol. Saw them the past 2 weekends I was there. That's an awesome list of fish. How's the macna haul doing?
It may be a little tougher using that as opposed to the 3 for the baffles. The 3 gets all the way into the joint where the 16 stays more on the outside. Since it's not "structural"you should be able to get away with it.
Make sure the Weld on is "weld on #16. This one is thicker and will fill the gap. Anything like the 3 or 4 is water thin and won't work. Should be an easy fix. Let us know how it works out