Search results

Scarlets are the only hermits I have, because they are supposedly the reef-safest. I've never seen them hanging out in sps, but pretty much everywhere else. It actually looks like that guy is taking a snooze.

That's not the test screen I remember......no Indian (or should I say Native American?). It was a bull's eye design, but I think it included the call letters for the station....and that incessant beeeeeeeeeeeep. And, just prior to the test screen they would sign off with "The Star Spangled...

You can't make up 2 inches with shims. I'd start with a piece of 2 x 4 and go from there.

IF NEEDED, you will want to put a spacer between the pipe and the stand so that when you screw on the clamp it doesn't flex or bend the pipe....possibly putting pressure on the glass and breaking it. So if there is a gap between the pipe and stand, you need to "fill" that up. If you lived...

I'd try super-gluing to hold it in place and then mix up some epoxy and really glue it in place. If you look closely at the first tee in my picture you can see that it is smoothed out as the tee meets the j-channel......that's epoxy. EDIT TO ADD: My favorite epoxy is JB Weld.....you can...

I was fortunate in that I had a rimless tank with 1/2 inch glass. I just picked up vinyl J channel (used on wallboard that comes in contact with any masonry), and then glued the pipe directly to that.....using pipe cement. I also then added epoxy to make sure it stayed. Would you...

Oh my gosh....I remember Windy Dink and You.....you had that clear piece of film you would put over the tv, and then sit right in front of it, while you got bombarded with electrons.

You want to avoid metal like the plague….especially with contact with water. So I'm hoping you actually don't have a metal check valve. And yes, check valves will fall….with something caught in them or simply scaled up with deposits. I would recommend not using them….or if you do, unions...

So you don't put stress on the glass from any flexing of the pipe that may occur in the sump area. The mechanical advantage of that relatively long piece of pipe could easily crack the glass on the tank.

I would also add three plastic conduit clamps where I've marked your photo with the red rectangles. You may need to add wood fillers to attached the plumbing.

The metal strapping will not do well with the saltwater environment. I'd suggest dropping a small piece of plywood to support the manifold....using plastic conduit clamps with stainless steel screws.

Glad to see you are finally going to start doing things the right way. God only knows that you've been screwing around for the last 40 years, so it's about time. Looking forward to the improvements in your tank....not that septic tank sewer that you have right now. :grin:

Or at least no deeper then your saw-teeth.

Thanks for the powerhead.....what a beast.

NO! The two are separate. Yes, the drain will stop once the water level in the DT hits the bottom of the teeth. However, your return line is separate from the drain and will not stop siphoning until it gets an air break. You can do that with a siphon break or keep at least one of your...

Actually with a manifold, you've already "tee'd" off your return. If your return flow is too great, just direct one of the manifold tees back to the sump......you all set!

How big is the sump? And what return pump are you using? And is there a refugium in your sump?

One more note as I look at this picture of my sump. If I were doing this today, I would eliminate the valves on the drain lines. I never turn them off.....just a waste. The original thought was that I'd turn them off when doing maintenance to keep water from coming down from the DT...

I would not recommend metering your return by simply putting a valve in the return line. Most pumps do not take kindly to being metered this way. Another way of doing this is to tee off your return line and return this to your sump. Put a valve on this tee'd off line to now meter the...

On mine I did not put in a valve.....no need. Only have a union in case I need to take it apart.