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I assume that since most bulbs don't output exactly one band of light but are more of an average range that as they age more and more light is produced in the red spectrum. Thus the whole "graph" if you will shifts to red.
I think that it can be a piece to the puzzle. Power compacts seem to be the biggest culprits.
For me MH and to a lesser degree T5 I think par decline is most important.
For PC I think wavelength and algae blooms problems are most important.
T5 can change wavelength also but think par decline...
I feed algae in an algae clip, but the rest of the food is set free to blow around the tank. I have a lot of LPS so feel that very little food goes to waste maybe doesn't feed fish but feeds something. Figure the ocean flows don't stop at feeding time so they can catch a dead mysis. ;D
Sorta fun...
I think the 4X39 is enough but 6X39 will be great if you are looking to keep SPS lower or a clam on the bottom. Most important thing I believe is bulb choice. UVL Aquasun, ATI Blue Plus, Giesseman Pure Actinic ar all superior bulbs for par and color. I will let you know how the Ice Cap bulbs...
+1 to questioning a LFS recomending that fish. My suggestion is to study as much as possible to make the life of the fish and you as comfortable as possible.
OK no fish is good ... I would try to use the bio spira as few people suggested.
Also would try to cover the tank as much as possible.
Dove andare?
Buon Viaggio!!
That is basically a 90G my 120 is 24x24x48. I got my tank at AO, he usually has some nice sales. But at the same time a lot of folks are selling tanks so maybe you will be in luck.
I don't remember if you have a fish in there or not but if someone is feeding it for you while you are gone I got a great idea from someone here use daily pill boxes to put tiny amounts of food for each day. You don't want someone putting a ton of food in not knowing better. Don't forget you...
I have one side open in my tank the other I can squeeze my head in(sure I look like a goof). The open side I keep clean the other like you said who cares.
I have seen a lot against the back...but if you have an open side you want room to clean around it. I put down cutting boards on my bottom glass to protect it(plastic not wood obviously). Then the rock followed by the sand.
That is a super nice T5 fixture .... wonder what the corals will do when you switch back and forth. Will there be a bad adjustment period? Just something to think about.
I am cheap old school, clip on light with plant incandescent light.
I took out enough cheato yesterday for about 6 people. I am considering changing during the summer but now the heat is not an issue. CF bulbs you need to find one with a 6500 wavelenght for best results if you are going that route.
I think the way you aquascape is up to you entirely.
I am very happy with my two connected islands one bigger then the other.
Have seen very nice walls too.
Just remember you want to be able to clean the visible glass so if you put a rock too close to the glass cleaning becomes a pain. You want...
Good points Rod....BTW I meant you didn't need a huge volume of flow. A SPS system requires more. You can see if by putting the powerhead on one side towards the surface you can create a circular motion on the surface. What you really NEED is gas exchange at the surface and movement for O2...