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OK, over the past 3 days, I have gone from 17 dkh down to 12dkh with only doing 10% water changes each day. Tomorrow I should be at 10/11 dkh. That was the BEST explination of ALK/PH I have ever read. I am waiting for someone in the group to drop off some cheato at my work for me so I can...
LOL, I happen to work at the LFS. We use the Red Sea kits which go from yellow <low> to green <normal> to royal blue <high>. I think I have a test kit that works like the one you described at the store, ill have to pick it up tomorrow. Once I get a good number reading off something Ill let you...
The salt I was using was Reef Crystals. It says it has high levels of everything that a reef needs blah blah blah. Maybe the salt brand is doing this? The pre mix water I am using now for water changes is regular Oceanic brand.
The ALK of the water being used for the water change is a nice...
Ok, I did a 1 gal. change today. I will up it to 2 gal tomorrow which is about 10%. Will stop all buffers and will stop the calcium for the time being. It is wierd, I have never had my ALK go bonkers like this before. Completely new territory. At first I thought maybe it was the water <bottled...
OK need some advice here. My measurements follow:
Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = never more then 5 usually around 2
PH 8.0 - 8.1 depending on time of day
ALK = BLUE, BLUE, BLUE! <using the Red Sea kit>
Calcium = 410-420 using the Seachem kit.
My issues are...
My PH will not go up even...
I prefer the Oceanic cubes over the JBJ. But both brands have replacement parts if needed although there is very little to break on them. Rather well built and engineered.
Is it a standard tank or a prebuilt cube? Either way, stands are made for both applications. The Oceanic has a small door for some storage. The stand for a standard 30 gal. either has a door or is just steel framework.
I use the Coralife 24" Lunarlight series. has 2 65 watt PCs <comes stock with 1 10k and 1 antinic> and 2 moonlights. I do have the mounting legs on it. They keep the unit roughly 3" off the surface of the water and they are adjustable in width to fit the ledge of your tank. Basicly it works like...
I have a home made nano, not a pre-built cube. I have it set up like its a large system. My overflow all goes into the left side of my sump. Then I have the bubble traps. In the center is where the return pump sits. The right side of the sump is my refugium and has a cascade wall that trickles...
Re: APRIL Meeting: Sunday April 22nd in Washington, NJ
I may not be able to make it there until 4:30ish but I will be there. Me and the baby are definately coming!
Pros:
LARGE water volume.
Easy to move stuff from one tank to the other.
Only have to do maintenance on 1 sump/fuge system.
One big water change
Cons:
Any type of outbreak <algae, bacteria, etc> effects both tanks at once.
Water change is big, can't do one tank one week, the other tank...
You can also use a product called Bio-Spyra to speed up your cycling. Its basicly live bacteria in a bag. I have seen it put to use and have seen great success with it. Works really well with cured live rock or dead rock. Same for live or dead sand.