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Like Matt just said, make sure the cap is off. Before you calibrate it, let it sit in tank water for a few hours to hydrate.
Make sure you are using 7.0 and 10.0 regents, remember to tell the controller what # regent you are testing at that point before pressing select. Give it a good 5 minutes...
Canopy I think would be an issue. My lighting (Current USA Nova Extreme) unit sits right on top of the tank, don't belive I can get a canopy on it.
If I go for the canopy, then I am back to replacing the lighting - which I do not want to do. (its ain't broke)
That brings on 2 problems, first I gain nothing in width which is what everyone says helps with the Aquascaping, and the 30" height could be a problem with lighting that extra depth.
So you can see why I am not sure.
Its a natural upgrade, but the cost of all at once is going to be tough.
Stand is a given, has to happen either way.
Return Pump - upgrade
Sump - OK
Skimmer - OK
2 part pumps - ok
GFO/Carbon dual reactor - OK
T5 lighting - OK
40-50 lb more rock - new purchase...
Because I use a manifold system like Phyl/John to drive other things, I am only pushing back to the tank about 420GPN. With a 120 and dual overflows, that just not enough going back. I don't believe I need to worry about getting 1200 back but at least 800-900 would be nice.
Assuming its possible (financially and home life aside), I have had great luck with GenX and use a Mak4 now, the the choices would be a GenX MAK5 or a Reeflo Uno Tarpin.
Keep in mind that many of the big pumps have a low head, I have to go up 15-16', that takes away a lot of pumps.
Thats too much sticking into the room, and to realistically cover the front to back with lights, I would have to change the lights - and that decision is already firmly made. (I am not changing my light unit)
The tank option has to stay at 48". I have a lighting system I am very happy with that is 48" that sits directly on top of the tank and if I had to replace lighting as well as the tank and stand, that would be a deal breaker - espceially since replacing the basement pump is going to be...
Currently I have a 90 gallon display tank (48" x 24" x 18") in my living room with a 40 gallon sump and all equipment in the basement. My stand is starting to bow forward at the top where the tank meets the wood lip it sits on. Its pretty obvious the only solution will be to replace the stand...
The socks trap the larger chunks of waste (uneated food, algae clumps). Without it, these parts will settle in your sump. If they get entanged in your rock in the sump or refug, then as they decompose the become a source of Nitrate.
If you are using 100 Micron socks, 3 day is about the best you...
Bring you refactometer to the meeting, I will calibrate for you.
Also, anyone else, if you would like your refractometer calibrated against a 53ms sample, bring it along.
Snails are very very sensitive to Alkalinity differences. If you just drop them in, they will be dead for sure. You need to drip acclimate them.
Personally I don't know anyone the QT's snails. I also notice that *most* LFS have their inverts in a different system then fish/corals.
One important question - did you buy this new or was it bought from someone else. If it was bought used, the first thing that you want to do is initialize it back to factory settings. (Check the manual, but the screen command is INIT MEMORY).
The easiest way to program a Jr is with a AC JR serial cable and using the free Aquanotes lite, otherwise you have to do it through the front panel.
1st step is to set the 3 letter names for each of your sockets. I am using an ACIII in this example, but the language is the same (JR supports 12...