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I agree with you Matt.
However, I don't think we ever know EXACTLY what are true number are. Think of our test kits as a baseline.
Phil is using a really good test kit (one of/if not the best) and comes up with 12 dKH and you came up with 11.4 dKH. While either of you could be off a bit on...
I've got a small 2 foot light on the stingray tank sitting on the cross bars so nothing to get in the way as it can be moved very easily (not mounted). Should make taking pics of the rays a snap!
Carlo
Matt,
I'd still like to see you get your alk up a bit. If I've got my numbers right I think you are at 7.4 dKH at present. You should have roughly 100g of water in your system and 5 gallons change is 5% (pretty easy one there). So after the water change you should be roughly at 7.75 dKH and I'd...
Hey Boomer, off the top of your head do you remember the things you want to watch out for when you are only doing Kati-Ani and not RO? I'm referring to things like phosphates, silica, etc. I know there can be issues with different forms of chlorine too which you have to be aware of also if not...
Phyl, glass shouldn't be a problem to have clean. Only problem at this point is having something to shoot inside which is starting to worry me the way things are going. I woke up this morning to no electricity in the house. The box on the outside of my house got toasted at some point during the...
Just thought I'd throw one more thing out concerning the chemicals. If you mix the two chemicals together after you have used them to recharge the resins they become neutral and aren't a concern. Unless you spill sprone (messy) it's real easy to recharge them without issue. I wouldn't be...
As Phyl mentioned it's adding the 2nd membrane that does it. However if you add additional DI cartridges you can get more pure water too. Just adding another catridge (IE Lowe's brand) for $15-20 with another DI cartridge will save you money long term because you can run the first DI cartridge...
That's so weird, I thought I went back through the whole thread looking for that before I posted the questions. Maybe I only went back to the top of page 2 or something or maybe I'm just an idiot. :)
Going to go read it.
Carlo
I run a kind of goofy combined RO/DI unit with multistage DI canisters. It's a 10 step unit with 3 DI stages; one is Kation, another Anion and then a combined canister. I don't find it hard to recharge the canisters but I work with chemicals a lot so take that for what it's worth.
I've flipped...
Matt couple of questions for you so we can all get a better handle on the system.
What size tank and how many gallons do you think you have of water?
How many pounds on LiveRock do you have?
How thick is your sand bed if you have one?
How long has the tank been running for?
What's your fish...
I think doing a minimum of 5% a week is good and up to 10% if needed. I don't see the point in doing more then 10% a week unless you hit some type of problem with the tank. If you need to change out more then 10% to keep some type of level lower (IE nitrates) then I'd think husbandry practices...
The pre-meeting JINX has set in and shown it's ugly face! :(
While at the Frag Swap something must have happened electricity wise in my neighborhood. Some type of spike or something. I lost 2 HOB filters on two different tanks as well as my main Sequence return pump. Also one ballast on a set...
Alkalinity in the amounts you need to add aren't going to affect anything but pH and that is only temp thing as the tank will normalize anyway.
One thing for sure is that Alk = 5.4 is BAD, very BAD. It's way to low. If you keep the levels like that your corals WILL DIE. There isn't enough...
Not sure if you have a basement setup or anything like that but if so you can "cheat" and tap a cold water pipe and run it into a heat exchange sump. I got a good quality hose and coiled about 50 feet in a small tub. I then used a controller to pump water into the "exchange sump" when needed...