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Based on what you just answered it sounds like it could be caused by cavitation. Is the inlet side of the return pump restricted in any way? Is it near the side of the sump?
What size pump is it?
Carlo
I'd agree with that but feel there is also a good middle ground too. I've been working very hard the last 6 months to design a reproducible system of management that focuses on a good balance between the two issues above using natural biofiltration without resorting to expensive solutions like...
I used K both ways in my answer which wasn't good. The first K was in reference to the Kelvin rating of the lights since mikem mention he liked the 12K Reflux.
"Lower K value lights"
The second K was in response to Phyl's question "Do they sell K to dose? And a test kit?"
and my answer was that...
My experience too more or less. Lower K value lights, high nutrients added to tank via fish poop and manual feeding, but good natural skimming & biofiltration to remove/process it all back out quickly.
What kind of NO4/PO4 readings do you get Mike?
Phyl, Zeolit brand has both the K test and...
One of the few Thiel things that's still decent. I didn't even remember where it came from except it was tucked away.
What's the other xyz stuff? Don't remember that at all.
Carlo
I would totally agree with everything you just said Boomer. In all honesty the method you just mention is what Neptune recommends or many other people use the Pinpoint calibration solution at 400mV (about ideal range) which should be dead accurate and no room for error like the Quinhydrone...
That's a good reason to always send the warranty cards in and put an email address when possible on the cards. You'll get notified this way of possible problems.
It only affected the #2 & #3 pumps if I remember correctly. 1 & 4 were fine.
This can actually happen with just about any pump or...
Not to mention you can topoff the trashcan with RO/DI and add some more salt to keep this always filled with SW in case of an emergency. Might want to keep a small heater or maxijet 1220 pump (decent heat) in it however so the temps are pretty close.
Carlo
I've got just about any reef chemical you guys could want except for GFO at the moment. It's not the DOW flake stuff however. I get pharm. class Ca & Mg instead of the driveway ice stuff. Little bit more but not that bad. I'm very, very shortly going to be a club sponsor for all sorts of chems &...
I like this breakdown of ORP values:
ORP Ranges:
Very Bad : below 140 millivolt
Bad : 141 to 180 millivolt
Poor : 181 to 200 millivolt
Too Low : 201 to 220 millivolt
New salt water : 221 to 240 millivolt
Low : 241 to 270 millivolt
Medium : 271 to 310 millivolt
Good : 311 to 340 millivolt...
Couple things, if the smell coming from the skimmer is noticeable and bothers you then by all means put a bag of carbon on top the skimmer or something so the air has to pass through it.
On the effluent, it wouldn't hurt to use carbon and if you do run carbon in your system 24/7 then this is...
I run exactly the same as Rich with the same air pump.
Carbon is way over rated for the air or effluent coming out of the skimmer. We just don't inject nearly enough ozone to make it anywhere near dangerous.
Carlo
In case some of you guys don't know a couple of the new people who showed up in out thread.
Jose (JDieck) is the creator of the Reef Chemical Calculator. He and his calculator are even featured in the popular book The Reef Aquarium - Science, Art, and Technology by J. Charles Delbeek and Julian...
Here's another article from Ron Shimek on Reef Stability I thought I'd share. It's the same mentality as the earlier posts but "more together" since it's an article and not from a mailing list.
http://www.reefland.com/rho/1105/reefc7.php
The article talks about both Temp & Salinity.
Carlo
Exactly my thought. BTW, some of the stuff that guy says coming from a LFS owner is BAD, BAD, BAD! His type of advice is what gives us much to talk about. ;D
Carlo