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THE SLIDE RAIL CLOSEUP: AND NOW THE FUN PART- WIRING AND SOLDERING.

SLIDE RAIL CLOSED. THE ALUMINUM L BARS WERE SIMPLY CUT TO LENGTH AND SCREWED DIRECTLY FROM THE BOTTOM TO THE SLIDE RAIL. THE FRAME WILL SEEM A LITTLE WOBBLY AT TIMES, BUT THE INSTALLATION OF THE LUMENARCS (later on) MADE IT MORE RIGID. I HAD TO CUT THE REAR PARTS OF THE LUMENARC TO AID IN...

THE DRAWER RAIL (BOTTOM MOUNT VERSION) FITTING (Had to cut notch to fit in rail indent) MEASURING "L" BRACKET MADE OUT OF ALUMINUM STOCK CUT TO LENGTH INSTALLED SLIDE RAIL COMPLETED.

DISMANTLING ALL WIRING/REFLECTOR THE RAIL AND "L" BAR READY FOR RE-INSTALL

Well, I got stuff from Chris during the frag swap. I decided on that after talking to Steve pnoy (that his lights were popping his corals into eye candy), after the lecture by Dana, after everything came together and I looked to see how much I had left in my pocket. I looked around the hall...

My tank hood is great. I have access to the front, not much of a problem. But it has always limited me when I want to clean certain parts of the tank. I had access, but now I wanted major access, or at least try. I remembered my thread on RC, and someone had added a sliding rack to facilitate...

Dana Riddle from the swap gave me a few things about lighting to think about!! BEFORE: AFTER "partial" CHANGE- more about that later!!!:

So, a quick update before I update this thread- Here is Coral #1 on the 7th, 14th, and the 20th.... I took the last pic with no topdown box on the 21st. The lights used were 2X250w 6500K Iwasakis and 220Watts of VHOS. I just redid my lighting Sunday the 25th, so I will be posting that update...

You can dip it in TMPCC if you have any, also a quick iodine dip will work, I dipped my new frags in Flatworm Exit and (Interceptor-SPS only) yesterday.

Just got back from the big HD to get some superglue Gel for tomorrow's frags :D :D :D They have DAP silicone for Aquariums! Really!!! There you go- they have something "specifically for us" but then again the GE works too :D

absolutely ALL HD stuff when it comes to the PVC pipe. You can buy the "ends" at modularhose.com very cheap, don't get them at an aquarium supply place, they are outrageously priced! I bought ALL my fittings, plus some at nearly 40percent less than what you would get them for at an LFS if they...

any more? keep it coming, it looks as if everyone's pretty consistent right now....

NOOOOOOO.... we lost another one! (as blange3 snickers in the background)

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~action~view~idProduct~KM2513~idCategory~FIDPGT~category~Gravity_Feed_-Dosing_Pumps_Top_Off-Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies~vendor~~tab~2.html here's a link to what I use, you can find them cheap used if you're lucky- otherwise, a stiffer gallon container...

I use GE 100% silicone, clear, from HD- no inhibitors of course

I also have a tank similar to yours- 60X20X20 custom, about 90 or so gallons. here's what I would do: A one inch pipe drains/pushes roughly about 600gph. At this point, if you really really wanna drill a tempered piece of glass, a minimum number of holes is what you want to do (I really would...

Recent Kalkwasser doser (again) here too. It brings pH up, and adds Calcium to the water. I use it to supplement my Calcium reactor since the effluent of that is a bit acidic, and the kalkwasser gets it back up a little. I only dose a little at a time, and do not have a kalk stirrer-reactor...

approximately how many drips/minute and how many bubbles/min do you normally aim for? Given the bioload and calcium uptake, what works for you?

That is a very nicely designed aquascape Austin! Very nice; the growth on them acros is crazy wild!

LOL, it's a madhouse in that forum. Everytime I log on (every 10 minutes), there's 5 new topic posts, lol. Came in here for a breather, and then going back in again!