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You can try feeding peas, but I'm still thinking internal or intestinal parasites. Edit to Add: I was typing while you added above post. So sorry for the loss. I'd be going back to that LFS. That fish was infested when you got it. Again sorry.

Sent you a PM on treatment options.

White stringy poop typically means intestinal parasites. I believe Metroplex is the treatment....in a hospital tank.

Now the question is, what's fried on that old one......might just be an easy fix!

If I'm not mistaken, freshwater dip is for immediate (but temporary ) relief. It doesn't kill them all. You are also putting him back into the tank that potentially has more flukes. If you wish to eliminate flukes, Prazipro! The great thing about Prazi is that you can dose the DT.

I'd wait a full week....giving any eggs time to hatch. Prazi doesn't work on eggs....only hatched flukes...and it could take up to a week for them to hatch. You can run carbon, but Prazi only lasts about 3 days and breaks down. So your second dose is a full second dose.

Mark, first remove any feather dusters or other worms you may have. Do the treatment per instructions. After a week, do a 20 - 25% water change and dose again. This second dose get's any eggs that have now hatched. As with many treatments, this stuff doesn't kill eggs.

Thanks Marcus and Matt. FYI, the plywood link isn't working for me, but that's OK because I've watched loads of them when I was into freshwater and a member of MonsterFishKeepers. Not interested in plywood....because I don't trust the epoxy coat, and with the limited space I have the 1 1/2...

Let me know what works for you. I'm around most days.

I have Neon Green Candy Cane frags (Caulastrea curvata)....also known as Trumpet coral. I'm selling them for $1/head. I have a bunch of 1, 2 and 3 heads, and all the way to the big ones in the back, around 15 heads. Pick up in Sayreville.

Thanks Joe.....it's life.....working on a plan.

Thanks for the comments everyone. It doesn't have to be 125g....ideally only about 21 inches high. Don't like the deep tanks were I can't reach the bottom. Glasscages is a potential option. I've also looked at a couple sites that had costs close to $3000 for just the tank. Please...

Let me preface this post by first stating that I picked up this tank in 07, were it was being used for land hermit crabs. It was a custom made 60 by 18 by 20 3/4 high tank with half inch glass....rimless....no euro bracing. When I say custom, I'm thinking a DIY homemade tank.....rather...

After lights are out and I shine a flashlight in the tank, I see loads of these covering the sandbed, with tentacles out. It's pretty neat looking. I'm also surprised these guys survive my diamond goby, the excavator he is.

Light sneaking through the blinds lit up this little guy this morning, wedged up against the glass with tentacles out, catching his morning breakfast.

Need to treat with praziquantel/Prazipro. If one fish has flukes, likelihood is all have flukes. This can be dosed directly into the DT.....no need to QT. Follow directions.

I see it now in your signiture....65 gallons....yep, 36 wide. That 300W Mars Aqua would still work. That 24 inch deep, you'll need at least 90 degree lens.....and the Mars Aqua comes with lenses.

One watt LED's have poor penetration. This might work as a refugium light, but not even close for what I believe is your 60 gallon DT...if standard, four feet long, and deep. Maybe if you ran a FOWLR with 3 or 4 of these it would work, but not for coral. The 300W Mars Aqua is a quality low...

Mark, just keep an eye on your nitrates and phosphates. Those mirco-foods have a tendency to spike N's and P's. I know that was the case when I had tried Reef-Roids.

Actually refractometers are very reliable pieces of equipment. However there are things that can give you erroneous results. Two that immediately came to mind are: 1. Consistant wavelength of light to read the refractometer. Different wavelenghts of light (different light sources) will...