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The first fish that comes to mind are Tangs....they are algae pigs. However, I would never recommend a Tang for a 55 gallon....too small......Although maybe you could squeeze in a Kole....but I'll let the Tang Police comment on that.
Fred, typically not good with pictures, but that algae looks to be grape caulerpa. If you have fish that eats it, it is just fine. Otherwise, keep an eye on it so it doesn't take over your tank.
I regenerate...and DI came from members who otherwise were going to throw it out. So I actually don't know the origin of the resin.....I'm not picky. One canister lasts me about a year....maybe about 20 gallons of water a week.
Tang policeTang police TANG POLICE Tang policeTang police
Sorry Matt, you can NOT put two Zebrasomas in the same tank....they will square off. I'll have to come down and confiscate one of those fish.....I'll be there tomorrow. :o
I know this first-hand because I have a Yellow and...
They do not have to be the same microns as what was in there. However, you do want your first filter....the sediment filter....to have a smaller micron size than the carbon block. If not, your carbon block becomes a sediment filter.
Coconut carbon is carbon made from cooked coconut...
Agree with Saltkreep88......Buckeye, BRS, Spectrapure, and I throw in there Air, Water and Ice.....can't go wrong with any of them. Just find the one that meets your needs.
RO/DI water is "non-iodized" water. The DI stands for de-ionized, so it's just fine using for testing.
I'd reinforce what Jim said....have someone else test. I thought the calcium issue was with early batches of reagent that was being used and it was all "fixed"........unless you are using...
Joe as far as the linked RO/DI, here's what I'd want to know. What is the rejection rate of that membrane. I prefer membranes that have a 98% or better rejection rate. Also, I'm not familiar with those types of DI canisters. Are they refillable or do you need to purchase all new...
Not sure if it was a "Randy" article or not, but I read that incorporation of calcium is in a direct proportion of 3:1 for magnesium (ppm). If mag was too low, the only "available" calcium was 1/3 magnesium. I'll see if I can find the article and get back to you.
EDIT TO ADD:
THIS is...
Joe, just be aware that not all canister threadings are the same. Just make sure whatever new canisters you buy that they will fit your unit.
I'd also replace your membrane NOW as well. Freeze fracturing most likely tore that up as well.
If need be, I have a second unit you could...
Chris, your "bad" numbers are "good" numbers to some of use.
Alk down to 9......my alk is between 7 and 8 (that's what I target)
Phosphate up to 0.02. .......my phosphate is at 0.05.....and you actually don't want zero.
Now buck up and enjoy what's left of Valentine's Day! :love_heart:
Although your mag level is low, I would agree it's not the mag. A mag of 1100 gives you an "available" calcium level of 367, and that's still just fine for laying down new carbonate structure.
You mentioned mag levels, but what's going on with you alk and calc number?
Darren, I always like looking at your pictures because they remind me of my tank.........and then I wake up from that dream.
As always Darren, looks fantastic.
Making RO/DI water today. What takes me 100 minutes in warmer months is now taking me 150 minutes (per five gallon jug.) I measured the temperature of the incoming water and it's 45 F. With this cold spell, it's only going to get worse.
If you're looking for mercury, they still make them specifically for aquariums. Here's my collection:
I quickly looked up Petco and found two....the first for $1.99 and the second for $1.49:
Petco Thermometer with Suction Cup
Petco Glass Thermometer