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Hold on one minute..........Something doesn't add up??? The dimensions are listed as 84 by 84 by 36.....with four sides 72 inches and four sides 36 inches. I went to do some quick calculations assuming the tank looked like this: I got the smallest length at 123 inches??? Am I missing...

We did donate a tank and corals, etc to the facility at Camden aquarium.

I will preface my comment with the fact that I know as much about electronics as I do brain surgery. On aquarium controllers, the outlets typically have a max draw, and in the case of my Reefkeeper, it's 6 amps (and not to exceed 15 amps for the entire bar). With a Ranco or DIY controller, it...

Marcus, don't be fooled by what you see on the face......if you pop the hatch, it looks like someone dumped a bunch of spaghetti down there. :eek:

With a Ranco or DIY controller, this isn't an issue. However, with an Aquarium controller....and in my case that's a ReefKeeper....I purposely run and "expansion sock" just for my heaters. This eliminates any excessive draw on the power bar, which might not be able to handle it. So if...

I wouldn't set them all the way up, but a degree or two above your desired temperature.

You MUST use a controller for your heaters because all heaters will eventually fail, and the dangerous failure is "stuck on". If all you wish to control are heaters, a Ranco is a good choice....and if you're handy, you can simply DIY one as well. EDIT TO ADD: HERE is one example of a DIY...

Woo Hoo....Santa came early.....nice little tool. Glad to see you're on the mend.

Sunny, always willing to help....so no biggie...but I will take a rain check on a frag when I'm ready. As far as your other project, it would appear that they make a three way smart switch, and if you locate it at the "hot" side of the two switches, you only need one, while the other switch...

Just to make sure, the gasket is on the "flange" side of the bulkhead, and NOT the nut side.

PM sent.

Holy crap. A simple switch interrupts the "hot" wire.....that is, the black wire. Black wire in, black wire out. The "neutrals", that is the white wires, should be wire nutted together inside the box. If you need a "neutral" (white) wire to the switch, use a pig-tail from the wire...

I will most likely be there....but can't commit until I know for sure I'll be in the area.

Welcome to your re-boot paulster! When you start putting it together, please include pictures.

My two cents......two of those fixtures over 38 gallons is a ton of light. How high off the water do you have the fixtures? My thought is that if too close to the water, you're not getting enough scatter. I'm also not familiar with those fixtures, but in looking at pictures, they appear...

I'm sure it was lost when our server guy for our site up and left and we didn't have backups....and that was around June 1, 2011. Oops! Just went back and looked at the link and it was Aug of 2011....so not when our site went missing. It's also an off-site link.....I'm assuming that site...

Highland Park....unless she's moved in the last year.

Is it April Fool's Day??? And the symbol on the front of that thing looks like a Pac Man.....and zissou was the noise Pac Man made as it ate Pac Dots!!!! Can you hear that......zissou, zissou, zissou, zissou, zissou, zissou? :D:eek::rolleyes: Sorry, similar to Mindstream, I can't see...

I use www.photobucket.com but there are a bunch that could be used.

Are they saying euro bracing? For a bow front, that's got to be very costly. Could you take a picture of what you're talking about......my thought is using acrylic and make new braces. I have some 1/2 inch stuff that might work.