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Carbon primarily attracts organic compounds, and once they have found their way into / onto the carbon, they will not be released back into you tank. It just can’t happen. You can think of it as a solubility thing…the organic stuff likes carbon more than water…so that’s where they stay. The only...
Let me first say that the sump / refugium is the only way to go. Now the only question for you is how to get the flow going to the sump.
We have the box type overflow and weve had a few accidents. I believe mikem has the bent tube type overflow, and Im under the impression that they are...
Ole' Rice and beans, of course!
Seriously, the only thing they eat are sponges. Here's a link that will tell you not to buy these...as well as other good info:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/dec2004/invert.htm
First off, don’t pop the bubbles…they could contain spores, which will cause it to spread.
My understanding is that Emeralds are hit or miss. Some eat it up…others could care less.
The best way to rid your tank is to physically pull it out (without bursting the bubble).
So let me see if I follow this spiritual story plot...the Holy worm is like Adam and Eve who has now eaten some of the forbidden “fruit.” So, as the Almighty Being, we get to pluck that little “fruit” eating deviant out of the garden and toss it into...Where did Adam and Eve go? I’m not up on my...
It really is a personal preference. However, I believe the bulbs that will give you a nice blue with maximum par are:
2 ATI Aquablue specials
2 ATI blue plus
If you stop into AO in Avenal, Will can show you the different bulbs.
Here’s a good link talking about combo’s and PAR values...
I can only guess that they meant threaded drill bit. If so, these are very expense bits that have threads at the one end instead of a smooth shaft. I am only familiar with threaded bits for wood...didn't know they came for concrete. But again, very expensive for one bit.
Yes! There are a...
I can't speak for all plugs, but the plugs that I have either have an approximate half inch stem or no stem at all...just a flat disc.
Your other option would be to get flat plugs or cut the stems off and glue the disc part to the "fingers" of the rock. No drilling needed.
Any bit for drilling concrete will work on rock as well.
As far as size, I don’t know what plugs you have, but mine fit into an egg crate shelf which has ½ inch openings. So for me, half inch would be just fine.
How do you know it a tank is tempered? If you know the manufacturer, call them and ask. It is my understanding that bottom glass typically is tempered while side glass typically is not. If you don’t know who the manufacturer is, you might want to try this...
There use to be a recovery plant in Cape May. I believe the reason it closed was that it cost more to extract the trace elements than the elements worth.
Not to mention that the elements die in the winter. ;D ;D :o
I’d buy a couple of gallons and soak full concentration (which I believe is only 5%). Do this by leaning the tank and painting the vinegar over the incrusted areas every so often. It will loosen the stuff up where it can be easily wiped off or scraped off. Wear rubber gloves…it is an acid.
As Im typing, onefish jumped in to answer anyway, my two cents:
I will speak for the convention and not for those of us who are daring enough to try other means of filtration. I am still in awe of the guy on Long Island who is running an under-the-gravel filter (in reverse) on his saltwater...
Arvind, I see you are in Edison….we’re in Sayreville. You are welcome to stop by and see what we have. As far as the canopy, the type of lights you wish to install will, in part, drive some of the design elements. We are still kicking around canopy designs, as well as the side cabinet.
That is unequivocally not true…unless you have the entire tank and rest of the sump covered with a top.
However, it is typically where you have your sump marked and use that mark to determine how much make-up water needs to be added due to evaporation. That evaporation occurs throughout the...