I had a hard time with Torches in my last tank but wouldnt mind keeping them if i could. i can always move them to a different tank so RAP is coming up. I am going to be on the hunt for softies and LPS.
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Ash's 400 Gallon Reef
- Thread starter Ashish
- Start date
I had a hard time with Torches in my last tank but wouldnt mind keeping them if i could. i can always move them to a different tank so RAP is coming up. I am going to be on the hunt for softies and LPS.
Also i had a hammer completely wipe out a acro, didnt know how serious there stinging power was, same with chalices, Gonis and zoas work better as far as being next to acros
Definitely
Any coral would win the battle against a acropora coral!!!
Looking forward to see how you going to handle this…
I just tested the par.. spread is pretty solid but I think I'll have to run the brightness close to 100% then again the par meter doesn't really factor in the t5 bulbs since lookin up it can be 120par and turning it slightly can bring it up 200par. Either way I am in the ideal range of 200-300 par nearly everywhere I want to be. Some areas on side are 100-150.
Below par measurements from only blues on at 100% brightness.
Below par measurements from only blues on at 100% brightness.
Wow ecotech raised prices by $50. Kind of upset that i didnt pull the trigger few weeks ago when I was close too.
I may just clean my mp 40s and use them instead, i dont think spending $1600+ on 2 mp60 is a good move right now.
This WAR is causing so much pain to ppl i wish it would just end, One man should never have this much power and I hope the Russian ppl take him out before he destroys our world.
I may just clean my mp 40s and use them instead, i dont think spending $1600+ on 2 mp60 is a good move right now.
This WAR is causing so much pain to ppl i wish it would just end, One man should never have this much power and I hope the Russian ppl take him out before he destroys our world.
Hey this tank is amazing.
If you don’t have corals you should just turn off the lights?
Fish don’t need light and you stop the algae from growing.
Hallowhead
NJRC Member
Can confirm just installed this in my fish room slop sink. Works great thus far. It's only several weeks old but very happy.
There is corals there but alot of die off (mainly bc of hair algae), Issue started last year when my hippo tang died by jumping out and was breathing so i added to the tank before it disappeared and decayed for good. The fish made the cryptic box a home and i couldnt just pull it out since there was a large rock in there and i feared smashing the fish. I have maybe 4-5 acros (2 large colonies), 3-4 large montis, zoas, 4 gonis (2 small frags and 3 large colonies). Once its cleaned up and healthy then I can make frags.
So I have been using RO unit from watergeneral for a long time. I remember 10 years back it was $100 for a dual output 5 stage RODI unit.
however, the cartridge have been expensive and ive not changed my membrane for 5 years. I decided to check online and it was cheaper to get a new housing/membrane then order a 150gpd unit. I realized they have a 400 gpd one and since my PSI is 50 (with a booster pump), I was getting only 50 gallons per day.
Anyways this was a great solution since it's fast and maybe close to 200gpd now
however, the cartridge have been expensive and ive not changed my membrane for 5 years. I decided to check online and it was cheaper to get a new housing/membrane then order a 150gpd unit. I realized they have a 400 gpd one and since my PSI is 50 (with a booster pump), I was getting only 50 gallons per day.
Anyways this was a great solution since it's fast and maybe close to 200gpd now
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You have a large system. Buying a bigger RODI will help make water easier.
I purchased the bullk reef supply 7 stage RODI and i think that was the most important purchase. I added the 150 gallon saver and I am thinking about adding a pump to the system.
making 0 tds water fast on a large system is very important
My MP40 schedule, I spend good amount of time trying to perfect this and felt it absolutely made my SPS Rock! The goal was to not let any detritus settle on the bottom or on corals and give corals and fish rest at night. Also provide really strong non linear flow which helped corals grow out naturally. Reducing flow considerably at night was also beneficial since this just allows me to go crazy flow mode during the day. 
Bad News Guys. I got Ich 
. I missed something so spend a few days mad at myself and thinking of what I can do. I installed a UV in the display (helped bigtime), fed the fish like crazy (phosphates are 0.55 but who cares), nitrates are 55PPM but who cares (both not toxic to fish and it was high before adding fish so i know nutrients are coming from the rock.). Fish are doing good. I removed Liverock from the sump and put in a brute can and will be fishless for 76 day. I will seed this bucket with sponges and coraline algae so that should save me time on the big display after 2-3 months. Good thing i got the RO DI updated since I need to make H2O fast.
replaced about 45 gallon and got my salinity down 1.024 to 1.021. Will spend a few days and get it down to 1.009 and hold for 30 days. Thats all there is for hypo so it was up my ally and my tank is designed in a way that this is very little work for me.
I dont have much life on the dry rock in the tank besides hair algae so this is the time.
Side note: I am convince that every coral vendor out there has ich in their system, not possible to QT for coral eating pest and not be mindful of Ich being transferred from tank to tank. which is why I really pray that I can keep it out of this system.
d
. I missed something so spend a few days mad at myself and thinking of what I can do. I installed a UV in the display (helped bigtime), fed the fish like crazy (phosphates are 0.55 but who cares), nitrates are 55PPM but who cares (both not toxic to fish and it was high before adding fish so i know nutrients are coming from the rock.). Fish are doing good. I removed Liverock from the sump and put in a brute can and will be fishless for 76 day. I will seed this bucket with sponges and coraline algae so that should save me time on the big display after 2-3 months. Good thing i got the RO DI updated since I need to make H2O fast.replaced about 45 gallon and got my salinity down 1.024 to 1.021. Will spend a few days and get it down to 1.009 and hold for 30 days. Thats all there is for hypo so it was up my ally and my tank is designed in a way that this is very little work for me.
I dont have much life on the dry rock in the tank besides hair algae so this is the time.
Side note: I am convince that every coral vendor out there has ich in their system, not possible to QT for coral eating pest and not be mindful of Ich being transferred from tank to tank. which is why I really pray that I can keep it out of this system.
dI am looking for a frag tank or trade that someone would make for this acrylic tank.
acrylic tank is at least 70 gallons or so and has 2 1" holes on the bottom. I can provide the bulkheads.
Honestly would be fine with a small glass frag tank.
if anyone is interested of a trade let me know.
acrylic tank is at least 70 gallons or so and has 2 1" holes on the bottom. I can provide the bulkheads.
Honestly would be fine with a small glass frag tank.
if anyone is interested of a trade let me know.
So I decided I am just going to setup a 40 gallon qt tank for corals and inverts
I want it to set it up like a display so I can qt everything for 4-8 weeks. I have alot of equipment so here is the game plan.
2×36" T5 combo with 1 gen4 radion.
Icecap 36xl sump
Vectra m1 return
Seasweep with a jebao pump
Liverock in sump
No skimmer.
I have to build a stand a work station and thinking about keeping the sump next to the qt tank for easy access. Since I will dipping and inspecting why not just make a large stand so I can easily move and inspect. This should help with cross contamination. I also want to drill a 1" hole lower in the tank and have that going to the sink. Also make a line from main display to the qt tank. This way anytime I do a waterchange I can quickly drain and fill the qt with established water
I want it to set it up like a display so I can qt everything for 4-8 weeks. I have alot of equipment so here is the game plan.
2×36" T5 combo with 1 gen4 radion.
Icecap 36xl sump
Vectra m1 return
Seasweep with a jebao pump
Liverock in sump
No skimmer.
I have to build a stand a work station and thinking about keeping the sump next to the qt tank for easy access. Since I will dipping and inspecting why not just make a large stand so I can easily move and inspect. This should help with cross contamination. I also want to drill a 1" hole lower in the tank and have that going to the sink. Also make a line from main display to the qt tank. This way anytime I do a waterchange I can quickly drain and fill the qt with established water