I use plumbers putty to build a dam to keep the water in a pool and keep the bit cool.
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Kschweers rebuild. 57g rimless
- Thread starter kschweer
- Start date
And if you don't have plumbers putty and you do have kids play doh works just as well.
Yeah….definitely keep the bit in water. In addition, it’s so much easier getting the bit to drill the exact spot if you use a guide. The Glass-Holes kit I purchased (1500 gph) had this guide….not only to guide the bit, but make sure the two holes were the right distance apart. If you don’t have a guide, I would highly recommend making one. You could use a piece of tile (and the glass bit you now have), or some other material. On a hole for a sump, I made a guide out of plexiglass (using a standard hole saw to make the hole).
As stated, use plumber’s putty or play-doh or bubblegum or whatever to make a sealed reservoir for the water.
If you don’t use a guide, the bit will want to dance around the glass. Now there is a way to start a bit minimizing this dancing by starting it at a slight angle. But I still don’t like doing it this way ….. because it could still dance.
As stated, use plumber’s putty or play-doh or bubblegum or whatever to make a sealed reservoir for the water.
If you don’t use a guide, the bit will want to dance around the glass. Now there is a way to start a bit minimizing this dancing by starting it at a slight angle. But I still don’t like doing it this way ….. because it could still dance.
Thanks for all the info guys. I'm glad you guys have confidence in me cause I certainly don't...lol. I appreciate all the help. I really want to go the glass holes route that overflow just takes up to much real estate in a tank that is already on the small side. Does any one have any experience drilling starfire or opti-clear glass? Also should I worry that it is rimless? Thanks again guys
Starfire glass shouldn't be any different from regular glass. And is the back glass actually Starfire?
The tank is opti-clear glass all around which is just like starfire its a low-iron glass. I have heard that low-iron glass is "softer" making it a little more difficult to get a nice hole in. Looking at the list from deep blue it says the back and bottom are not tempered and drillable. This is the list I'm referring to.
http://www.deepblueprofessional.com/web catalog/DB TEMPERED.pdf
Also the tank is rimless, does this pose any issues with drilling? Sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure I'm making the right call.
I'm rimless as well. Just have to make sure you mount the GH Overflow down a touch from the top. I'm not home right now, but I can measure this when I get home and let you know how far down mine is.
I have a thread on 3reef where I cut down the overflow. It was more difficult than I thought it would be because the glass sides of the overflow were actually superglued to the plastic. But it can be done. And the result I was really happy with. If you decide not to drill, and have any questions just let me know.
So it's been a very long time with absolutely no progress. I am happy to say that has changed. It's not much but at least it's progress. I went to help Edwin (ecambro) with some plumbing on his new tank, which is really coming together nicely, and he gave me the 57 rimless he had set up previously. I have been putting off picking it up from him but he insisted and I am very happy about it. Now that I have the tank in hand I am very motivated to get things going. As I said not much progress yet, but at this point any progress is great in my book.
Here's the tank when I unloaded it at the shop
And here it is after removing the black acrylic sheet from the back and about 40 minutes of cleaning.
I plan on cleaning the overflow a little better with some distilled vinegar.
Either this weekend or next weekend I plan to get the back painted black and to start construction of the stand. I am going to have the welder in the shop next to the one I work out of build me a rack to hang the lights (tek elite 6x39w) similar to the one cadlights produces. Hopefully things will move along at a decent pace. If you notice me slacking let me know, sometimes I need a good kick in the butt to get me going....lol
Here's the tank when I unloaded it at the shop
And here it is after removing the black acrylic sheet from the back and about 40 minutes of cleaning.
I plan on cleaning the overflow a little better with some distilled vinegar.
Either this weekend or next weekend I plan to get the back painted black and to start construction of the stand. I am going to have the welder in the shop next to the one I work out of build me a rack to hang the lights (tek elite 6x39w) similar to the one cadlights produces. Hopefully things will move along at a decent pace. If you notice me slacking let me know, sometimes I need a good kick in the butt to get me going....lol
The man is understating as always. he drove 2 hrs plus from ac to help me over a two month period ( didn't even really know me). I have no words for that. Thanks man!!!!!
This forum is awesome. I hope to be able to pay it forward at some point. Just like everyone has helped me.
40b footprint? Beautiful tank
Sent from my galaxy s4
Sent from my galaxy s4
Yup. 36"x18"x21". So an extra 4" added to a 40B
Great tank mike. I loved it as my first rimless. But the tangs are so convincing to go large. Lol
I remember Edwin mentioning that. Hopefully ill do it justice...lol
Great idea Jose. I will do that next time I get a little extra time. This is part of the reason I left it at the shop. I can work on it right when I get off of work when I'm still in "work mode" not "need to go to sleep mode". Lol
Thanks for the offer Dan. I will definitely be in touch. I was leaning towards steel because of cost and the fact that I plan on painting them to match everything else.
My idea is basically and upside down "L" which I will bolt directly to the stand. Kind of like this but most likely shorter.
Does anyone see any issues with this idea? The light is a 6 bulb tek elite which isn't too heavy. I figured if it seemed too heavy We could put I diagonal brace in.
I plan to paint them and the stand flat black.
My idea is basically and upside down "L" which I will bolt directly to the stand. Kind of like this but most likely shorter.
Does anyone see any issues with this idea? The light is a 6 bulb tek elite which isn't too heavy. I figured if it seemed too heavy We could put I diagonal brace in.
I plan to paint them and the stand flat black.