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I have to say I am impressed with the 60. You can adjust it so that it pulls so much air, the foam head will collapse because the drain on the cup cant pass the air fast enough. When I first set it up, it took awhile til I figured that one out. If I took the lid off, it was fine. Its also quiet...

Correct, after drip acclimating, the snails/stars get no dips, they get the once over then go right into the DT

I drip acclimate everything. Bags get emptied into a 5 gallon pail with a lid (I had an exquisite wrasse decide he would rather be a bird), a small heater, thermometer and an airstone. This gives me time to inspect everything. After which fish go to QT and any corals get their requisite dips...

After I found my sources of silica and corrected them, I used SERA Silicate Clear in a TLF reactor to remove what was left in the tank.

Just spent months going through a major diatom bloom. Diatoms require silica to flourish. So if you have diatoms, you have a continuous source of silica. Check your top off water. Especially if you use well water. Even with RO/DI, it will penetrate the membrane as well as deplete the DI cart...

Ok then I would say back to basics.....fresh media, recalibrate the pH probe. In the meantime you will have to supplement daily the alk and ca manually. But its important to try to keep consistent levels manually during setup. Set the effluent for about one drop per second and the co2 to about...

Not unless the ph of your DT is really low

Is there anyway you can post a pic of your reactor setup and label which lines are what? Maybe you have something hooked up wrong. And when was the last time your ph probe was calibrated?

thats the effluent or is that the display water? If the effluent, I would think the KH and Ca would be alot higher. Your just pumping water through it. The alk of the effluent of the reactor should be up around 25dkh/450ppm, dont sweat measuring the Ca, that will balance with the Alk. So with...

Have you tested the Ca and KH of the effluent?

The hood is a DIY but the fans are just the standard 4" muffin fans, I bought the filters from McMaster Carr. The filter guard snaps on and its a thin foam filter.

I just re read through this thread. A suggestion. Stop dripping the kalk. Only use RO for your ATO for a week. Bring your parameters back up manually. Then watch your parameters. Measure a few times a day. What may be happening and causing you frustrations is the kalk in the ATO may be bringing...

a drop that fast would indicate a testing error. either human or with the test kit itself. see if you can borrow one to confirm your findings.

I thought about that, I am keeping an eye on the pH. Worst case I will install fans on the sump area with filters. But so far the past 2 weeks I havent seen any issues. Where the tank sits is between my living room and the kitchen on the second floor. I have a large golden retriever and two...

Ok figured I would update. RO/DI tested negative for any silica. So that made me happy. My tank water showed no signs either but obviously its there or there would be no diatoms. We took some samples of sand and added some water and let them mix for a few days, then tested the water for...

I think the results would depend on the reason for the crash. Assuming all the parameters matched, the net effect would be an extreme reduction in any toxin/contaminants concentrations in the water column, if this was the cause. With that said, you would still have toxins/contaminants on...

The Hidden Reef usually has them in stock..........

I mix up a half cup of coral frenzy, pour that in the tank and leave it for 5-10 minutes, Everything opens up from that, then I feed Rod's Food. Great stuff, it feeds the whole tank. A little goes a long way.

Mags arent pressure rated. So every foot of head on them they reduce their output significantly. I have an AGA 120 RR sitting on a 40inch stand. Using a mag18, by the time it lifts the water all the way to the top of the tank through a T and 2 90's, I only see about 1100gph. The AGA overflows...

Use your hand as a test???? Not really a good idea until you know whats going on. Radio Shack has a couple of multimeters for under $20. Well worth the safety of your life IMO. One slip up and poof, not only does your tank get zapped, but so do you. You'll get stray voltage no matter what in the...