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I will get to that once I get my server up and running.....lol

I don't think the full frames suffer, it is more of perception. I have had plenty of time with a D800 and 5D, but it all comes down to lens choice. I do use a close up filter but hardly ever on the 70-200, I use mostly on my 100-400 since the focal on that is just brutal.

Nice. I did work at a wastewater plant once....everything I had with me smelled like crap for at least a week :upset:

Take a look at this, just wish I had a tank big enough to put this to use.....lol http://pentairaes.com/pentair-aquatic-eco-systems-sparustm-pump-with-constant-flow-technologytm.html

I don't see coral photography any different from any other macro photography i.e. flower close ups, which is how I approach it. Nikon should have a base of 200 ISO as well I would think as it is a typical ISO increment for all SLRs. I know point and shoots are weird as they start at like 160. I...

Not sure what camera you can set ISO to 0 on as usually 50 is the lowest you can go. Typically 100 is used on a bright sunny day and anything lower than that would be an insanely bright scene. Typically pictures will be between 100 to 400 ISO depending on tank lighting. If you have your ISO too...

Looks like you have the hang of it. You may want to explore how to use white balance bracketing as well.

BRS has a daily deal on a reefkeeper elite titanium w net today

depending on camera you need a full frame, normally as long as you can get as much as you can centered in the shot it will work fine

Yeah, none of the presets work as they are for everyday use and our tanks are anything from normal run of the mill lighting condition Kelvin wise. When I used to run MH lights I was using 20,000K, presets probably top out at about 10,000K. I known I said paper before, but to get a more accurate...

You can do it out of the water, it is mostly so you can compensate for color temperature. If you get a chance play with the white balance presets in your camera to see what I am talking about. They have compensation for sunny, fluorescent, incandescent, etc. lighting. It all comes down to what...

I use a piece of paper, plastic or one of my white reef rocks that is never normally in the tank. You do not need pure white either, like a touch of gray usually works as well. Deal is it has to be under the light (it is reading color temperature and adjusting accordingly), you can do that...

It is simple depending on how you want to do it. For my DSLR: You take a picture under your tank lighting of a white surface. You will want to save the picture and have it accessible in your camera all the time (I have multiple saved for use depending on the time of day for my light settings)...

I use an Apex, but all the other controllers can do the same thing for the most part. The Apex for me was easy to setup and get running out of the box and when it came to price all seemed to be close in price after I added all the parts I needed. Currently Apex Fusion is out of beta as well...

You could always get a 2 or 4 channel timer, but you would have to do some electrical wiring. You might want to think about a controller as when you start even buying timers and power strips/extension cords you are almost in the same realm for a little extra money.

I did not quite finish this post the other night, sorry about that I had a server crash and posted what I had at the time. In any case if you have a high end point and shoot or DSLR you can do custom white balances. I know the other post in this forum talks about lighting gels but I only see...

This is with my point and shoot. Cameras have come a long way since the film days. I hate post processing photos. To set my white balance for this shot it took me all of 2 seconds, it can be tweaked a bit but you get the idea. The bluer picture is with auto white balance.

Higher the mm the more zoomed in

That camera is not bad, that was actually my second DSLR. As for a lens you are going to be limited with your budget. I know you can get an 18-55 cheap and the closest you can focus is about 10 inches. For a true macro lens you would probably be looking at the 50mm and you get about 2 inches...

Talked about here: http://www.njreefers.org/showthread.php?87632-Lighting-gels