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The presentation is about 80mb so impractical to transmit over the internet. If you're not doing anything on the 18th of January I'll be giving it in Baltimore, lol.
If you're not happy with the 70-300 then do yourself a favor and make sure that this lens is comperable to the 17-55 or 24-70. I...
What are you going to do with 100g of phyto?! We never had a silicate problem before using this salt (though Stan never expressed an issue with it when he was using it). I can only imagine it to be the salt (and it tests high on independant tests).
You're misunderstanding. The best you can do is get 1/2 life size at the optimal focal length/distance from subject. When you are outside of those parameters (I don't know what they are for that specific lens), you will get less than life size.
With the D200 there's enough crop space if the...
LOL. There are some posts from about a year ago about a guy who believed that you could change tanks (sterilizing the equipment not in use) every 24 hours and in 8 days be free of ich. I think you'd need to have an ich prone fish in full break out to see if this really worked.
We used RC for the first two years. The last year has been a cluster puck of bad salt experiences. I don't like the red sea coral pro (nor their regular salt). I feel that the silicates are higher than I care for in that salt (I didn't have a silicate problem before using it and BillyR ended up...
Interesting lens by the description. Here's an excerp of a review I found HERE:
Looks like it only goes 1:2 (half life size) rather than 1:1 (life size), but if it brings it into your budget it would make a good compromise, especially since you could also use it as an all around lens where you...
I wouldn't shorten the cycle any. Just because you don't see it doesn't mean it isn't there (as we well know) and your shortened cycle could eventually backfire on you. If my goal was to GUARANTEE that my system was ich free I wouldn't take any chances.
I would think if there was a load restriction it would have a fuse in it to prevent over drive. The fact that the company denies that it has anything to do with the strip (you must have gotten water on it is typical rhetoric) leads me to believe it has everything to do with the strip. JMcynicalO
The only way to attack dormant ich is to pull all of your fish, hypo them, and fallow your tank for 8 weeks. Higher temps (if your corals will tolerate) would speed the cycle somewhat. Not worth the words on this page though if you don't then TREAT (not just watch) all incoming (animals, rock...
Calaxa is right on the money, IMHO. Unless you are treating, you are passively allowing ich into your system... QT or not. Not all fish will show symptoms even though they are carriers. Everything you get from anybody should really go into QT (fallow for corals/inverts, hypo for fish). You MUST...
Hijinks, these are the types of concerns that you should discuss with a store manager though. Posting here doesn't solve the problem or save fish. You should check in with Pat and see that he knows about your experiences. I know he really cares about the store and its reputation.
It seems like...
As long as it was for an established breeding system and not to put in your display tank, I could see that. You don't want to get a pair from the same brood stock... but you don't want to be experimenting with them either. Research first so as not to risk killing more WC than necessary.
I've read that that is why it out-competes the chaeto for nutrients/grows faster. It will also take up PO4 & NO3, but to be able to starve it you would have to have something that removes the ammonia before it can.