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it's not a crab from the xanthidae family...(aka dark-finger crabs). As Dr. Ron Shimek would say - there are just too many to identify from that family and virtually impossible to identify given that most of the ones in our tanks are juveniles. Regardless - it does look like the red mithrax -...

if you lean the LR against the backwall - it will be hard to clean the back wall later and it can result in some detrius (e.g. poop trapped) build up. That stated, a lot of people have the "fruit stand" look where you lean LR against the back wall. You can compensate by having a PH in the back...

carpet surfers not allowed.... ;D the nano link on that webpage doesn't work... what is the center item- is that a waterfall?

that really stinks...sorry.

just because a tank is bigger doesn't necessarily make it better...look on the bright side - it could have been a BIIIIIIIIGGGGGGGG funk from a big tank!

i'm guessing he means he has them in his backyard...

Suggested Water Parameters for a tropical reef tank... Calcium 380-450 ppm Alkalinity 2.5-4 meq/L or 7-11 dKH or 125-200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents Salinity 35 ppt or sg = 1.026 Temperature 76-83° F pH 7.8-8.5 OK....8.1-8.3 is better Magnesium 1250-1350 ppm Phosphate < 0.03 ppm Ammonia <0.1...

I think carlo meant " NO" problem... ;)

the whole idea behind having those snails is to eat dead matter/uneaten food and help stir the sand. With a bb - i'd imagine any shrimp or fish would just eat any uneaten food left behind - unless somehow it was unreachable under a rock - and even then I don't see how a snail would reach it...

If you have a live trap - you could come to my backyard and grab the guy that digs under our fence and comes thru munching the yard...lol.

if it's hard to the touch - I am going to guess chicken liver sponge...any better pics?

one thing that is tough to know is whether an individual has posted the same item on another forum. This happens a lot with non-members posting over here...

welcome to NJRC! It sounds like the amount of nutrients introduced into the tank (food, poop etc.) is greater than the tanks' ability to extract/remove/process. The phosphate reading may be misleading since the algae growing at the bottom is probably absorbing the phosphate. It'd be helpful...

looking good....welcome to NJRC! keep in mind even large tanks do not necessarily mean tangs will not chase or react aggressively towards one another. Always put the least aggressive fish in first...but anyways - way early to talk about fish. When you say "FSB"- what does that mean exactly...

with the VHOs - given that they are actinics - it really depends on your personal preference. Actinics aren't "required" for coral growth. I'd stretch em 18 months like blange said.

I have a tunze 6060 on one side of a 55 and it really moves water thru the length of the 48". I'm not sure I'd want a tunze 6060 on one end of a 36" 65 tank. If you put another PH on the other side - the middle would have fantastic turbulent flow - but you couldn't keep a whole lot in the...

welcome to njrc trigger99! T5 or even VHO would be fine for zoas in my humble opinion. You could set up a bank and even adjust 1 or 2 for actinic. If you go with VHO you won't even need a reflector since the bulbs have them built-in. With a 55 gallon tank - it's 13 inches front to back and a...

This topic has been moved to Retailer Experiences. http://www.njreefers.org/forums/index.php?topic=8209.0

unfortunately he had to shut this tank down - but he's starting a new (bigger) one...I for one am looking forward to whatever new names he has in store for the fish...and I think he even named his cuke.... ;D

First of all - Eli Manning is not going to be president - but I certainly can support the cause! ;) I still am amazed at watching those replays of him scrambling out of the pocket/grasp and throwing that bomb. Adding LR to a tank cycling... Positives - if the rock is wet, it may still have...