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I got what you saying. After doing th test in the bottle fill the vial up as far as possible to the top without spilling. That will be around 9ml or so.
Then look down through the vial and compare that to the card. Doing it this way is plenty close enough and I doubt would show any noticable...
Ouch, sorry to hear that Bill. Hopefully a couple of "cloud days" with some good light afterwards and they'll come back.
Do you have the option of moving them down to the sand bed under a good light for a while?
Carlo
Thanks Phyl, got hung up on the other stuff and missed the lights.
You can also cut back on halides a hour a day during hot days also. If you have a timer you can turn off the lights in the middle of the day (cloud cover) for an hour or two and then back on again. If you don't want to outright...
One of the things I found earlier with one of my early RO units was a defective pipe tap. Actually I don't even bother using the 1/4" taps anymore when I hook up people's RO/DI units. I go to Lowes and pick up a 3/8" tap, valve, hose and adapter and replace this going into the first filter...
I didn't mention it earlier but ironically the water I keep mixed up hasn't been used for a water change on my system. I've yet to do a water change on my systems since Easter when I started the system up at my new house.
I have used it for every new system I've brought online so in a way...
emanaresi what is the average tank temp?
What do you consider high temps?
Do you have an air conditioner?
What temp is the air in the room with the tank?
Any idea what the relative humidity of the room with the tank is?
The two ice cap fans in the hood aren't really helping the tank per say but...
I try and keep two full containers of salt water mixed and ready to use at all times. When I use part of it I add RO/DI water to it with some salt to get it back to 35 ppt.
Typically I try and alternate complete use of containers so I can clean them out but as long as stuff is precipitated to...
I'm not sure what you are trying to test?
You can test tank water or freshly made up salt water (best to wait 24hrs) and get a valid test result. If that wasn't what you were asking then can you explain what the "test" water is?
Carlo
The problem with that approach Dave is that you can't tell if you have chlorine or chloramines. Either can be bound. You can however tell if you have neither.
That's why I suggested the ammonia test after using a detox product because it WILL show up that way as higher ammonia.
Carlo
Looking good so far. Keep an eye on the Nitrites since even trace amounts are a problem for some inverts. It also gives you "false" readings on your Nitrates. Once your Nitrites are at zero get a baseline on your Nitrates and then watch to see if they go up or down.
Watching the Nitrates of...
I agree it's probably enough rock. As long as it keeps up with the bio-load it is for sure. I was only kidding about the rock but figured after adding more corals he'd need more rock to attach it to. :) This landscape looks so much "cleaner" then the typical rock wall and is refreshing. Bill did...
The problem with this type of test kit is that you can't tell if it's chlorine or Chloramines showing up in the test. You can also use a pool test kit for combined or total chlorine and free chlorine but again you don't know which form of "chlorine" is present.
However a simple test you can do...
If a power blip takes out a pump or powerjet it was probably on it's way out anyway. Pumps and powerjets aren't sensitive like electronics to outages. Heck most pumps that tell you not to use on a wave maker will do this fine for a while before they die. As an example I've got two Hydor #4s on a...
Now you need to pickup more corals and rock to put it on and get some more fishies in there! Remember Rome was built in 3 days, so get cracking.
All kidding a side. I like the island rock work.
What's your plan on stocking fish wise?
Carlo
I guess if I ever went through all that I wouldn't call it a conspiracy theory. Man talk about getting a hard time.
Oh btw, another good check to do is to test for ammonia in your RO output. It's better to check this pre DI. If it shows any ammonia then your type of carbon block isn't the best...
With a UPS you don't want to try and power your whole system. In a nut shell you really only want to concentrate on keeping a couple of powerheads and/or air bubbles running to keep O2 up. Trying to run heaters, lights, return pumps, filters is not a good idea.
Keep some ice packs in the...
Chloramines themselves aren't the problem. It's when you have a high pH > 8.3 AND the treatment plant uses sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide OR calcium oxide.
It's this combination that is the KILLER.
Nope, not really to any extent you could tell. Heck my TDS are < 80 at the tap but look...